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Tinto is a diminutive, dimly lit space that pays homage to an authentic Spanish tapas bar while accommodating trendy L.A. Its seductively rustic décor features a white granite bar paired with plush black leather chairs, and a dining room with more black leather, worn brick walls, candle sconces and old-world crystal chandeliers. The scene is a lot more hip than the working-class tapas bars in Spain, but its concessions to its L.A. clientele are minor transgressions. One can easily make a meal of the tapas, which include patatas bravas (crispy fried potato chunks) drizzled with garlicky aïoli, platters of high quality Spanish cheeses (e.g. manchego, Idiazábal) with dried fruit and quince paste, and cured meats served with olives, garlic and Marcona almonds. The “sopresa” (surprise) in the albondigas happens to be a barely detectable amount of cheese. One of our favorite tapas is a crock of bay scallops with crispy serrano ham cooked au gratin with garlic and béchamel sauce. Main dishes from the chef, who worked with elBulli’s Ferran Adrià, include traditional paella, duck with red wine-poached pears and a 14-ounce rib-eye. The all-Spanish wine list is moderately priced and offers some worthy choices from Navarra, Rioja and Ribera del Duero. For dessert, finish up with crema Catalana, rice pudding or flan.
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