 This is the second Mexican restaurant for chef Roman Cruz and brother Samuel. Named for a town in southern Oaxaca, Tlapazola Grill in Marina Del Rey offers the same inventive cuisine and reasonable prices as the West L.A. original. This branch is smaller, with only eleven tables. Desert colors are prevalent in orange walls, terra-cotta pottery and vibrant heart-themed paintings. Complimentary tortilla chips, fresh-made and airy, are served with chunky salsa. Start with a bowl of lemon chicken tortilla soup, loaded with shredded chicken, fresh-cut avocado and chunks of mild ranchero cheese. A compelling “wrap” features a crisp flour tortilla casing, grilled shrimp, Jack cheese and vegetables, plated in the center of four separate sauces: tomatillo, yellow mole, lime caper, and mole coloradito. The carne asada plate revolves around two juicy, grilled rib-eye steaks, thin and boneless, served with sautéed onions, guacamole flecked with diced tomatoes, black beans and orange-tinged Mexican rice. An interesting seafood option is the filet of grilled salmon with mole pipian, an earthy pumpkin seed sauce; a roasted garlic and spinach quesadilla completes the inventive plate. If you still have room for dessert, order a textbook flan or the berry crêpe burrito with crème de cassis berry sauce.
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