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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Toast Restaurant Review: Derron Deraney and partners focus the décor to a contemporary minimalist point of view while chef Drew Van Leuvan puts his classical training to good use, especially in such dishes as the gnocchi. Closer to quenelles than to gnocchi, they're not made of potato but instead of pâte à choux, then poached, then quickly sautéed and served on greens anointed with minced shallots and a dab of apple cider vinegar. Acting as a palate cleanser, the Scharffenberger sparkling wine is lovely with this dish. We also loved the homemade orecchiette with their rich oil-studded cream sauce. All pastas, the excellent bread and even the ice creams are made in-house. Both the wine and beer lists are short, but they offer some excellent choices, especially the beer list, with its emphasis on unusual boutique choices. Atmosphere is a little high-energy, perhaps too much so for intimate conversation.