Tocco Restaurant Review: To call this mod white, black and hot-pink Wicker Park eatery a neighborhood wine bar seems like a disservice: doing so does not tell everything at play. Whether you slide onto a futuristic stool at the bar, gather at the large communal table in back with friends or settle into an intimate table for two, the food --- all about simple preparations using quality ingredients --- is reason to pause. The margherita pizza arrives with a crackly crust, imported mozzarella and simple San Marzano tomato sauce so as to allow the ingredients to shine. (Shine, they do.) Likewise, the caprese is constructed from standard components, but the melting, buttery, salty bufala is a cut above. Other dishes we enjoy: classic lasagna; creamy truffle-sauced, house-made tortelli filled with spinach; and scottata con rucola, barely seared shards of New York strip topped with peppery arugula and nutty Parmigiano. The wines are a nice lot, lending nuance to what's prepared.
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