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Tomasso Trattoria & Enoteca Restaurant Review: Light and airy, yet modern and bustling with an open kitchen, Tomasso has put the urban in suburban, much to the relief and delight of its sophistication-starved neighbors. Of course, when it comes to stateside Italian dining, sophistication means rusticity as much as refinement; all breads and pastas are made in-house and the regularly changing antipasto selection is laden with regional nibbles like mozzarella in carrozza (essentially mini-grilled cheese sandwiches) and supplí (akin to arancini). Desserts include tiramisu, gelato and biscotti. As for the vini, there’s a fascinating pan-regional list of wines by the glass and the quartino, plus a bottle selection that spans the globe---discriminatingly and tastefully (keeping the all-style, no-substance labels to a minimum).