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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tomatillo Mexican Grill Restaurant Review: Even in its setting, a strip mall in suburban Olivette, Tomatillo is different. No drive-up window, no toys for kids, no cute commercials. The spare, corn-yellow and terra cotta interior doesn't frou-frou around, and folks eat and run or take sacks with them. Diners are happily downing some of the best tacos and burritos around town from a short, worthy menu. The meat leads the way. Nothing boring, either; chicken is marinated and grilled, a juicy leap from the cardboard one sometimes finds. Barbacoa, shredded beef, is perfectly seasoned and never dry. In other spots the steak would be a highlight---here it finishes third. Beans come as pinto or black, and the rice that goes into burritos is seasoned with cilantro and jalapeño. Soft tortillas are warmed when ordered by a gizmo that whooshes 'em with a shot of steam; only then are they filled to your specifications. Six, count 'em, six kinds of salsa made from scratch, although not, unfortunately, available to add as desired. You have to choose. Sigh. Tomato-free, tangy chile comes vegetarian, chicken or steak, as do tacos or burritos. Skip the guacamole. Margaritas aren't bad for the machine-made kind.