A fixture on the Brentwood dining scene for more than 30 years, this clubby little trattoria is usually jam-packed and attracts its fair share of celebrities. Take a seat at the bar or wedge yourself into one of the tables in the homey, brick-walled dining room. The kitchen prepares Tuscan-style thin-crusted pizzas, pastas, risotto, aromatic steaks seasoned with olive oil, and sizzling veal chops. We suggest the pollo al mattone---rosemary-and-garlic-kissed chicken that's grilled under a weight. For dessert you'll find tarts, tiramisu and sorbets. The wine list offers more than 300 options, primarily featuring Italy and California, as well as a few dozen selections available by the glass. The space is quite small, so reservations are a must. Stop by Bar Toscana, the adjacent sister lounge, for fresh spins on Italian classic cocktails and stuzzicini (small Italian plates).
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