THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tour

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Tour Restaurant Review:

Too many menu options can frazzle a diner---or worse, the kitchen---and ensure that a restaurant is only capable, instead of excelling. Such is the trouble with Tour. Chef Kenneth Collins, late of soul food joint Ida Mae’s, aims to take diners on a whirlwind journey from one cuisine to the next, but it’s more exhausting than whimsical. Think of it as the “If It’s Tuesday, This Must Be Belgium” approach of menu construction. Still, there are some unabashed successes: Pierre Robert salad with pears is delicate, with a perfectly creamy cheese, and the Maryland lump crab cake is sweeter and lighter than the doughy bricks many other restaurants turn out. The pick-and-choose system is ideal for its wine list, which alights at Greece, Argentina and Australia. Night owls, meanwhile, will appreciate the kitchen’s late hours---it’s open until 6 a.m.---as well as the chicken fried chicken, an ideal after-hours dish. Ultimately, if you stick close to home with Tour’s more American dishes, instead of the muddled ones from abroad, you’ll leave satisfied.