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Townline BBQ Restaurant Review: At this barbecue headquarters in Sagaponack where Johnny Cash rules and paper plates belie the seriousness of the chow, line up at the counter but leave your horse outside. Choose a seat in one of the roomy booths, at the long communal table, in the rustic wooden dining room, or the saloon. Chef Joe Realmuto (Nick & Toni’s, Rowdy Hall, La Fondita) traipsed through the barbecue trail and brought back a massive smoker along with his own interpretation of smoked meats. Pork ribs are meaty and moist with a hint of caramel; robust brisket can be had lean or moist (both winners); and smoked organic chicken is delicate and tender. Sides like sweet baked beans, buffalo fries and thick-cut fried onions should not be missed, and be sure to pick up some hush puppies with chipotle mayonnaise to share. Seasonal fried pies, a sugary version of the empanada, round out this Hamptons experience.