Tree Restaurant Review: While a cozy French bistro opening in the East Village isn’t always of note, when it comes with a pedigree as good as Tree, it is: owners Andrew Robinson and Colm Clancy come from Gramercy Tavern and Lucien, respectively. Tree is about half the size of the already cramped Lucien (translation: it's small), but the tables here are reasonably spaced and the atmosphere is cozy instead of stuffy. Bottles of wine line the walls near the bar almost all the way to the top of the stamped tin ceiling, and the flattering lighting and tile floor keep things simple and chic. That minimalism is extended to the menu that offers exclusively French classics. The short rib with winter vegetables and mashed potatoes is a decadent affair. The roast chicken is moist, as is the rack of lamb. Other standouts include "The Tree Burger," as well as many fish dishes, like seared yellowfin tuna with braised fennel, roasted tomato, olives and capers, or poached salmon with a warm potato salad, goat cheese cake and lemon vinaigrette. Appetizers are a little plainer, and include a selection of soups and a salade aux lardons. The kitchen trips up with its desserts---the Alsatian apple tart is still a work in progress---but with a fine selection of affordable French wines and a relaxed, wholly unpretentious vibe, Tree is a failsafe choice among the neighborhood’s French bistros.
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