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Treebeards Restaurant Review: The Market Square location's exposed brick walls lend an urban rustic atmosphere to this eatery, which is accented by works of local artists. What draws the crowds is the Cajun comfort food that is Treebeards' forte: hearty jambalaya; rich, spicy shrimp etouffée (creamy and buttery, rather than the common tomato-base); red pepper-laced corn called maque choux; formidable gumbo; and, of course, the definitive interpretation of red beans and rice, with or without a link of sausage. Despite the industrial-sized vats of each that Treebeards churns out daily, the food's quality somehow remains unflaggingly superior. Housed in the Baker-Travis Building, the second-oldest building in Houston, the restaurant has a quaint balcony overlooking Market Square park. Other locations.