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Trevor Kitchen & Bar Restaurant Review: First, find the doorway; it's easy to miss. Then, plummet down an open-stepped stairway into a subterranean boîte. A hidden gem of a dining room and a candlelit lounge await. Indirect, intimate lighting enhances exposed, original walls of the 150-year-old building; have you stepped into a speak easy? Underground, chef Trevor Wilkinson turns comfort food into dishes of refinement and flavor. His changing amuse might surprise as a BLT consommé with apple beignet, the savory bacon broth highlighted by diced fresh tomato. Wilkinson deconstructs clam chowder ravioli, the recognizable ingredients flow in a soup with fresh pasta and a garnish of crisp bacon. Temperatures trick as hot black cod tops cool lobster, cabbage slaw and crisp rösti harmonize. Port-braised beef cheeks come with kabocha squash risotto studded with mushrooms. Pork and beans dress up as suckling pig with truffled navy beans and chorizo. Desserts play with your mind and tongue, too. Go for the milk and cookies for a version better than your mother ever made. The weighty wine list wins points with well-chosen global selections. Diners who patronize the bar are not left out; the lounge menu includes savories, such as a trio of mini Kobe burgers. For gastronomes, book the chef’s table.