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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Troiani Restaurant Review: We were thrilled with the arrival of Troiani, an upscale Italian venture devised by pedigreed owners, savvy restaurateurs Paul Mackay and Rich Troiani. The former Fleming's location provided a big architectural space that was honed and retooled to a swanky, richly hued degree, a grand room that still somehow manages to feel intimate. Menus---lunch, dinner, bar---are impressive, indeed, rendering the decision-making process that much more challenging. In the evening, share a couple of plates such as the cured meats or fresh scallops with fregola sarda pasta and orange-pepper sauce. Small pasta dishes are all appealing but sharing is recommended because main courses are sizable. For a leaner plate, opt for wild salmon---prepared any way---or ahi with bagna cauda, but we must confess, the Roman rack of lamb and crispy duck confit make us smile with contentment every time. Special occasions may call for the house signature dish, steak Troiani for two, a New York strip filled with salame cotto and Fontina, prepared tableside. We like the wine list, which offers exceptional bottles at all prices, and the by-the-glass offerings also impress. An assortment of cheeses is a fine after-meal option, but the trio of gelati is also good for sharing. Service is friendly and enthusiastic, but sometimes too much information is just that: too much information.