THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED TWO

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED TWO Restaurant Review:

Perhaps this venue should be called "True"---Wolfgang Puck protégé David Gingrass' reincarnated bit of sweet restaurant real estate at 22 Hawthorne Lane (his first venue, aptly named Hawthorne Lane, was a sophisticated local favorite for years) represents a sea change in local attitudes towards dining: Fun is in. Listening to patrons, his daughter and maître d' Rebecca, and his own heart, Gingrass kicked back and eliminated the stuffiness from the space and menu. A retro, '70s-esque interior of cabana-rich woods, campy hanging lamps, and earth-toned banquettes breathes groovy style and comfort around a central, circular, copper bar. A communal table features cushy wingback chairs. Gingrass indulges his affinity for strong, seasonal flavors: rich, roasted marrow on crusty bread; warm house-made head cheese; pork schnitzel; farfalle with cauliflower and smashed anchovies. Poached eggs make appearances in soups, on salads and inside a plate-size spinach raviolo drenched in sage brown butter. Bacon in all its forms winks (oinks?) throughout the relaxed menu, including gourmet pizzas that feed two nicely. Service remains top tier, and the one-sheet wine list adventurous, with some affordable wines poured en vrac (on tap). Indulgent desserts under pastry chef Andrea Mautner are truly far out.