Umami Burger Restaurant Review: Umami is a Japanese term describing the elusive “fifth taste” that is neither sweet, sour, salty nor bitter, but sultry and savory. At chef Adam Fleischman’s L.A.-based burger venture, meticulous steps are taken to impart umami. Burgers are cooked at low temperatures to achieve a just-right medium-rare, then thrown on a griddle for balanced char. Cheeses are crafted in-house. Homemade condiments, such as umami ketchup, are designed to balance and contrast each burger’s ingredients. (There are ten unique burgers on the San Francisco menu.) Despite this attention to quality, flavors don’t always pop. The truffle burger, though juicy and succulent, doesn’t exude much truffle. Hand-pressed tater tots with a cheesy center aren’t the voluptuous dish that one hopes. The Earth Burger, a mushroom and edamame patty, however, is as “meaty” and substantial as its beefy brethren. Weathered floorboards, sparse lighting and cool greys create a soothing and modern atmosphere. A cedar-shake shingled wall is reminiscent of Japan, while a backlit samurai sword is definitely all L.A. There is an emphasis on hand-crafted beers. Locally made Humphry Slocombe ice cream is paired with most desserts, such as the freshly baked cookies that are served piping hot.
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