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Underbelly Restaurant Review: If you want to experience the breadth of Houston’s culinary scene --- and only have one meal in which to do it --- then Underbelly is the restaurant for you. Chris Shepherd, founding chef at defunct Catalan Food & Wine, offers a daily menu featuring fresh local produce and in-house butchered meats. His dishes range from familiar comfort foods to those that are Asian- and South Asian-inspired. The rehabbed building, designed by Collaborative Projects, evokes an elegant farmhouse with walls made from old barn doors, handcrafted walnut tables and mismatched chairs. A community table fronts the open kitchen behind which Shepherd and his team work. Evening specials include family-style servings of butcher shop cuts: braised lamb’s neck with farro salad, or a whole goat rack with broccoli rice casserole, for example. Individual selections might be seared Gulf white shrimp with pimento cheese grits, or lamb meatballs slicked in a spicy vindaloo. Butter biscuits and rabbit gravy is a Texas delicacy, as is the slow-roasted Akaushi beef. Craft cocktails and a wine list composed of bottles from family-owned and -operated wineries add to the dining experience. The wine bar stays open late every night and offers a limited menu of light bites. You won’t want to skip the strawberry fried pie to finish. And on your way out, you can opt to leave with a jar of pickled vegetables, jams or jellies, all house-made.