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Underbelly Restaurant Review: If you want to experience the breadth of Houston’s culinary scene --- and only have one meal in which to do it --- then Underbelly is the restaurant for you. Chef Chris Shepherd, founding chef at defunct Catalan Food & Wine, offers a daily menu featuring fresh local produce and in-house butchered meats; his dishes range from familiar comfort food to Asian- and South Asian-inspired. The rehabbed building, designed by Collaborative Projects, evokes an elegant farmhouse with walls made from old barn doors, handcrafted walnut tables and mismatched chairs. A community table fronts the open kitchen where Shepherd and his team work. Evening specials include family-style servings of what comes out of the butcher shop: braised lamb’s neck with farro salad or a whole goat rack with broccoli rice casserole. Individual dishes might be seared Gulf white shrimp with pimento cheese grits, or lamb meatballs in vindaloo. The butter biscuits and rabbit gravy is a Texas delicacy, as is the slow-roasted Akaushi beef. Craft cocktails and a wine list composed of bottles from family-owned and -operated wineries add to the dining experience. You won’t want to skip the strawberry fried pie to finish. And on your way out, you can opt to leave with a jar of pickled vegetables, jams or jellies, all house-made.