Upland

Upland Restaurant Review:

Upland is a collaboration of restaurateur Stephen Starr and erstwhile Il Buco chef Justin Smillie. And while it is billed as "Californian," it's much more Italian. The spacious restaurant has a "big box" feel, which is inevitable on this strip of Park Avenue South. But tuck into the food and you'll forget about the corporate environment. Perhaps start with a pizza. Baked crispy with thick Neapolitan-like crust, the 'nduja pizza (spicy pork sausage) is the best of the four on offer. Bucatini cacio e pepe is executed well enough to pass muster with a Roman gourmand. Larger plates at dinner range from porchetta to smoked Long Island duck to roasted branzino for two. The signature burger, only available at lunch or brunch, features grass-fed beef, American cheese, peppadew peppers and avocado. Sweet endings might include coconut chiffon cake or hazelnut milk chocolate budino. The wine list is long with affordable options by the glass and bottle. Italian or Californian? It doesn't quite matter when the fare at Upland is this satisfying.