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Urban Farmer Restaurant Review: Plenty of restaurants in Portland offer local, seasonal, organic cuisine, but few serve it with the self-aware panache of Urban Farmer. Housed in an open courtyard in the middle of the posh Nines hotel with “walls” of leather-bound books, jars of pickled produce, and a field of wheat grass, the expansive restaurant is reached by an elevator whisking diners to a setting that simulates a farm in the city. The kitchen’s purveyors earn prominent placement on the menu and the pleasant servers can and will discuss each one like beloved relatives. The menu, however, is surprisingly ordinary. Grass-fed steak is the focus, with a wide range of appealing cuts, but there are just a few other local flavors --- lamb, steelhead trout and wild salmon. Lunch offers a standard assortment of salads and sandwiches, with entrées such as squash, kale and Fontina risotto. Portland-brewed beers, Oregon varietals, and spirits from local distilleries are poured, as is a homemade moonshine aged on the premises. On weekends, enjoy brunch (fried chicken and waffles with truffle honey perhaps?) and a Bloody Mary bar until 3 p.m. Desserts are childhood classics prepared with professional execution: a mud pie layered with Rocky Road ice cream is one temptation.