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Underground: Bethnal Green
The skill of chef Nuno Mendes is demonstrated at Viajante in the East End of London.
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Lunch Fri.-Sun., Dinner nightly

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Dining room at THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Viajante, London, UK

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Viajante Restaurant Review

: Nuno Mendes, the laid-back Portuguese chef who came from elBulli, launched Viajante in the somewhat unexpected surroundings of the Town Hall Hotel, the former town hall of Bethnal Green in the heart of London’s East End. But why not? The area is rapidly gentrifying and it has the reputation of a cutting-edge part of London with its artists, new restaurants and nightlife. The dining room is impressive, a stark white industrial space with bold colours and big windows and an open kitchen. Diners come here for a culinary adventure, as course upon course of innovative, exciting combinations of tastes and textures appear. Seafood is a strength: try raw mackerel with sour cherries and lettuce, and sous-vide lobster with milk skin and leek ash. Meat is treated equally daringly, as in pork and prawns with deep-fried capers and cabbage juice. Desserts might include frozen marzipan with celery and lime. All provide explosions of taste. There are liberal extras as well. The wine list is generously priced; the staff is charming and Mendes is always there. Set lunch 3 courses £28, 6 courses £65; 9 courses £80 (on request lunch only); 12 courses £90 (on request).

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