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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Villa Fontana Restaurant Restaurant Review: Chef and owner Carlo Gislimberti, a native of northern Italy, has become something of a legend in northern New Mexico. He is the region's best-known wild mushroom expert, often leading fellow chefs and guests on expeditions into the Taos Mountains. Hence, his restaurant is also famous for its fresh-picked mushroom dishes. Two of the best are mushroom ravioli with Gorgonzola and tomatoes, and sautéed mushrooms with polenta and Parmesan. A hearty Sangre de Cristo mushroom soup is also divine. The rest of the menu lists traditional northern Italian favorites, all impeccably prepared and beautifully served. Try anything with mushrooms or the fettuccine with peas and ham. Tyrolean pasta-and-bean soup is an apt cold-weather starter, and the venison with vodka, pears and chestnuts is an outstanding main dish. For a lighter option, start with gnocchi with tomatoes and cream, followed by sautéed sole with porcini butter. The restaurant is a bit of a drive away on the highway leading to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, but well worth the trip---not just for the food but also outstanding views of the mountains and the sage-dotted Taos mesa.