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Watts Grocery Restaurant Review: Chef Amy Tornquist transformed an old grocery store into a vibrantly colored dining room surrounded by artwork from nearby Craven Gallery. Now a popular neighborhood gathering spot, Watts Grocery exudes cheerfulness and high energy. Gourmets of all ages and budgets congregate here for Tornquist’s latest creations using produce and artisan goods from Durham County. To start, try the beet salad with horseradish, spiced pecans and a feta dressing, cornmeal fried oysters with pickled pepper aïoli, or the hush puppies dipped in a basil mayonnaise. Seasonal entrées may include low country gumbo, pepper jelly-glazed duck breast over Hoppin’ John and Brussels sprouts, and a rib-eye steak with pimento cheese topping and buttermilk mashed potatoes. Save room for the famous desserts: cloudlike angel food cake with lemon curd and candied lemon peel or a decadent version of a “S’more” with house-made chocolate ice cream and fudge sauce, well worth the calories. The brunch menu includes shrimp and grits and fried chicken biscuits with cream gravy. At Watts Grocery, the bourbon list is long and the wine list, short.