THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Winterborne

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Winterborne Restaurant Review:

This small, elegant establishment provides a haven for serious fish eaters. The lighting is flattering---just enough by which to read a menu, just enough to cast a warm glow. It’s a relatively austere place, but there’s a patina of age, with pale yellow walls, sinuous wrought iron sconces, gleaming napery, smart charcoal gray carpet, and tasteful prints. The menu is small, carefully chosen, and it remains relatively constant, allowing for seasonal changes. There’s always a warm fish terrine perked up with a mustard aïoli, fine mussels marinière, and excellent sautéed oysters with a creamy sauce for dipping. The best offering is the bouillabaisse, crammed with various shellfish, a slab of whitefish, thinly sliced potatoes and a strong, pungent broth. Or simply opt for the fresh catch of the day. Winterborne has always been a spare establishment, and the wine list offers about a dozen bottles, all very reasonable with a few good labels, to be sure, but nothing to surprise you or to suggest that someone has his eye out for wonderful new selections. The tone is sophisticated, and the cooking is eminently dependable, but you simply won’t find any culinary stretches here.