Wokcano has evolved from a single Los Angeles location to a six-restaurant Southern California chain serving pan-Asian cuisine and sushi. The owners, brothers Michael and Marcus Kwan, have taken over the two-story Santa Monica space that formerly housed John Sedlar’s Abiquiu and Bikini, and Union, Rix, and lastly, Akwa. Just two blocks from the Promenade, the prime space features a sushi bar downstairs (as well as the staircase John Travolta throws James Gandolfini down in the film "Get Shorty"), and a large, multi-level patio perfect for drinking, dining and star-gazing. Sadly, the hip décor and layout is more memorable than the food, which tends to be sushi, fried, or fried sushi. Spicy tuna tornado dip subjects the fish and chunks of avocado to the indignity of being spread on corn chips, hamachi is drowning in its spicy ponzu sauce, and fried calamari is unrecognizable. Highlights include the black pepper beef mignon, which features interesting textural contrasts between the meat, onions and noodles, and honey walnut shrimp. But it may be more enjoyable to visit during one of the bar's frequent happy hours, or for an after-dinner specialty martini on one of the outdoor couches near the fountain.
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