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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Wolfe's Barbecue Restaurant Review: Who smokes the best ribs in town? Louis Wolfe does, right here in this stripped-down little space in the shadow of the State Capitol. His ribs embody all of the very best charms of the smoked bone---the meat is lean but still moist and juicy. These ribs are so good they're served naked; the sauce---a sweet-mild concoction or a slightly hotter, semi-sweet version---comes on the side. You'll also find a nice beef brisket sandwich and a few other hickory-blessed meats, along with a slew of tasty side dishes. If all this weren't enough, the Wolfeman shatters the ribs-aren't-for-vegetarians premise by smoking strips of tofu. Enjoy these treasures in a window seat and soak up the Colfax Avenue street scene.