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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Wolfe's of New Orleans Restaurant Review: HURRICANE KATRINA: this establishment is currently closed. For a New Orleans Travel Update as well as resources, information and help click here. The white-clapboard aspect of the cottage housing Wolfe's is a bit deceptive. Cross the threshold and you'll find a simple but bright and spiffy dining room with a small bar. A copper-wrapped hearth and chimney rise from the bare-wood floors. The pale yellow of the walls is interrupted with white-framed windows and a few vintage New Orleans photographs. Proprietor-chef Tom Wolfe, who also owns Peristyle, is a veteran of Emeril's, and the Lagasse influence shows in lengthy menu descriptions filled with a cornucopia of unusual ingredients and an overload of sauces. Not everything clicks, but the simpler dishes can be worth the visit. We found grilled fish moist and fresh-tasting, and very compatible with a red wine and roasted garlic sauce. Likewise, beef tenderloin was of good quality and sauced with restraint. The pitfalls come in such overwrought compositions as chili-glazed, double-cut pork chop with jalapeño and sweet corn polenta, homemade chorizo congris and ancho chile reduction. Sugar-deprived diners should take dead aim on the chocolate-butter bars with vanilla ice cream and Chambord coulis. The welcome is pleasant and the waitstaff is efficient and informed.