York & Albany

York & Albany Restaurant Review:

The four-square building stands at the top of Parkway, looking down to Camden Town one way and across to the park created by John Nash in the 1820s on the other. It was originally a coaching inn, named after Nash’s friend and patron the Duke of York and Albany (immortalised in the nursery rhyme, The Grand Old Duke of York). It was taken over by Gordon Ramsay after years of neglect and converted into a restaurant, bar and deli with ten rooms above. It’s smart and a hit with the locals who tuck happily into the likes of tagliatelle with crab, chilli and lemon grass, or foie gras and chicken liver parfait with fruit chutney. Mains are equally honestly sourced and well cooked. Try braised belly of pork with roast sweet potato and greens, or first-rate pastas and risottos. It all takes place in a pleasant dining room with neutral colours, wood floors and well-placed tables. The bar has huge windows and is a good meeting place. 2-course set lunch and pre-theatre menu £18, 3 courses £21; set Sunday roast dish £17.