 From the Yiddish adjective for pleasantly full-figured, Zaftigs occupies a suitably large space, often crowded with Brookline families. The wall art is a hoot, featuring big, bold paintings of bygone delis and plump Jewish mothers (hence the name). Background music is also suitably retro---think Sinatra, Bird and Chet Baker. The menu, by contrast, puts modern touches on old-fashioned deli fare. The sandwiches are two-and-a-half-handers---for better or worse: the Youngman, with chopped liver and pastrami, goes down like a brick, though we’ve got a soft spot for the Lupo---brisket between latkes with gravy and horseradish. We also enjoy the enormous and interesting main-course salads. The classics are less successful, lacking the depth of flavor that would be carefully coaxed from them under more authentic circumstances. |
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