 Moving his pots and pans from Elmhurst to the city, chef-owner Michael Taus set out to make a fine-dining statement in Chicago and he succeeded with this minimalist restaurant. Options include a five-course or vegetarian menu, seven-course chef’s menu and a spontaneous seven-course indulgence. Expect dishes to walk the line between all-out formal and comforting---the crispy Amish chicken breast with roasted beet pierogi and pearl onions a case in point. Any of those options can be served with wine pairings. Speaking of wine, Zealous' cellar, which is actually a glass-enclosed room visible to diners, sports some 5,000 bottles. Taus loves to tinker, so the offerings change frequently. Service is attentive, as you’d expect for the price. Don’t miss passion fruit donut holes when they’re available; we’re still haunted by their memory. But the Armagnac-soaked prune-chocolate cake with Armagnac ice cream is a great second choice. We should add that this is definitely a restaurant for grown-ups.
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Zealous Restaurant is one of our 2012
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