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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Zoe Pan Asia Restaurant Review: If there is anywhere in town where the dress code is black, it's gotta be Zoe. The celadon green room's only hint that you're not in SoHo is that there are a few too many of those Asian paper light fixtures. (St. Louisans would rather see their menus than be chic.) The crowd these days is more apt to be wearing other-than-black than it was when Zoe Houk opened her restaurant with a splash in '98, but it's still a spot to see and be seen for the society crowd and young professionals. Most of them down exotic cocktails like the Red Dragon while they read menus a little smaller than they were on opening day, when it was St. Louis' first Asian hybrid, but the servings are not chic-ly sparse, another homage to St. Louis mores. It's a good place to get several plates of appetizers like barbecued eggplant half-moons, seared tuna sashimi and a particularly fine rendition of mussels. The entrées seem far less devoted to noodles than they once were, although seafood selections are still strong. It's good to note that the seasoning seems more assertive than it was originally, perhaps because of the Asian chef now heading the kitchen, but its intensity won't cause your eyes to pop out. Desserts are in keeping with the theme. We continue to hear mutters about service with an attitude, but that, too, seems to have lessened.