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Zucca Trattoria Restaurant Review: If your mama could cook this good you would never, ever leave home. New Zealand-born chef-owner Andrew Milne-Allan cooks pure Italian from the soul. He takes very traditional Italian dishes and deconstructs and improves them with a deft touch, drawing inspiration from Naples, Umbria, Sicily, Sardinia and elsewhere on the boot. Hot, rosemary-sprinkled farinata appears instantly as you peruse the seasonally changing menu based on top local ingredients. All fresh pastas are made in-house. You'll like the tortelloni with fresh truffle and melted cheese, the penne with black trumpet mushrooms and chanterelles, and the pici al ragù d’anatra con funghi, a creamy dish of hand-rolled, spelt-flavored spaghetti tossed with duck breast and fresh porcini with a reduction sauce. Fish is a specialty and the choices of the evening---perhaps branzino, porgy and orata---are brought out glistening and bright-eyed so you can pick. Whole fish is expertly grilled with herbs. For the squeamish there’s a daily filet, say rare tuna in caponata sauce. Meats are naturally raised, such as dry-aged Cumbrae Farms strip steak or roasted breast of moulard duck. Try the deboned roasted quail on barley risotto with Parma prosciutto and a crunch of fresh pomegranate. At meal's end, vanilla bean and dark chocolate gelato “drowned” in hot espresso awakes the palate. The 70-label wine list, chosen by restaurant partner Blair Aspinall, is largely affordable Italian and intelligently picked. Corkage is $25 if you want to bring a special treasure.