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Zucca Trattoria Restaurant Review: New Zealand-born chef-owner Andrew Milne-Allan cooks pure Italian from the soul. He takes very traditional Italian dishes, deconstructs them, and improves them with a deft touch, drawing inspiration from Naples, Umbria, Sicily, Sardinia and elsewhere on the boot. Hot, rosemary-sprinkled farinata appears instantly as you peruse the seasonally changing menu based on top local ingredients. All fresh pastas are made in-house. You'll like the wild mushroom ravioli with truffles, the large oven-baked ravioli with red wine beef and pork ragù, and the squid ink noodles adorned with various seafood. Fish is a specialty and the choices of the evening --- perhaps branzino, porgy and orate --- are brought out glistening and bright-eyed so you can pick. Whole fish is expertly grilled with herbs. For the squeamish there’s a daily filet, say rare tuna in caponata sauce. Meats are naturally raised, such as dry-aged Cumbrae Farms strip steak or roasted breast of moulard duck. Try the braised rabbit complete with mushrooms, pine nuts and briny olive. At meal's end, vanilla bean and dark chocolate gelato “drowned” in hot espresso awakes the palate. The 70-label wine list, intelligently chosen by restaurant partner Blair Aspinall, is largely affordable Italian. Corkage is $25 if you want to bring a special treasure.