The American Tea Room
Thinking Outside the Bag
by Kim Fay
"And
the heart does not die when one thinks it should,
we smile, there is tea and bread on the table."
To
true tea lovers, there is no need to explain the meaning
of this poem, which was written by Nobel Laureate Czeslaw
Milosz. For those of us who have fallen under the spell
of a superior Lapsang Souchong or perfect Earl Grey, these
few lines say it all. There is something inexplicably essential
about tea. It is sustenance.
So,
why does it have such an intoxicating affect on some of
us? Perhaps it is the rituals that have been associated
with it for centuries. Or perhaps it's because communing
over a pot of tea has become a lost art, akin to typing
a letter on an Hermes manual, as opposed to pecking out
an email on your laptop.
These
days, tea connoisseurs often feel like archaeologists, as
they dig for an option or two at the bottom of a menu, beneath
a lengthy listing of lattes and frappuccinos, or scour the
shelves of the supermarket for something that doesn't come
bagged. While Los Angeles does have a fair assortment of
shops where you can buy good, loose tea, from the Zen-ish
Elixir to the contemporary, hybrid Chado, none possesses
the comprehensive stock or apothecary mystique of the Paris-originated
The American Tea Room in Beverly Hills. This lovely
corner shop belongs to the ranks of such classics as Keijzer
in Amsterdam (their cinnamon tea is sublime), or Murchie's
in Vancouver, B.C. (whose blackcurrant is worth the international
shipping charges). These are the kind of places that inspire
visions of the tea plantations in Darjeeling and Assam.
And where, the moment you walk in, you know that alchemy
has been invoked to create the blends on offer.
The
brightly-lit, floor-to-ceiling shelves in Le Palais des
Thés are lined with gleaming silver tins, each one
elegantly labeled — from Fruits Rouges Wu Long to Pu
Er Imperia l— to entice. Co-owner, Randy Arnold, is a
gracious host, whose enthusiasm and enchanting friendliness
will ensure that you'll leave the store well-stocked with
tea: packets of your own choosing and samples he's sure
you'll adore. Along with his partner David Barenholtz, the
owner of the Apex Fine Art gallery, Randy (who dumped the
major motion picture marketing biz for the exotic world
of tea) spent two years wooing the French Le Palais des
Thés company for North American rights. But this
doesn't mean you'll soon find a shop on every upscale boulevard
in the country. Randy and David intend to keep the shops
exclusive in every way, with the exception of price (most
teas are very reasonable) and customer service (you won't
be greeted with any de rigueur haughtiness here.)
The
store carries over 200 kinds of loose tea, including a cinnamon
that competes with Keijzer's. As well, there is a selection
of gifts such as tea candles and beautiful packaged boxed
sets, which feature the "Introduction to the cultures
of the world" series; this is a great place to do birthday
and holiday shopping. And if you want to add a unique, stylish
touch to your own event, buy a handful of the Grand Jasmin
Mu Dan. These tightly woven balls of jasmine tea are served
in Merlot glasses half-filled with hot water. As the glass
is presented to your guest, the ball unfurls into a floating
lotus blossom.
The American Tea Room contains the small Thés Bar,
where you can sample brews; officially, though, this is
not a café, as the emphasis here is on the teas you
take home. And classes on technique, appreciation and rituals
such as the Japanese Tea Ceremony are in the works (get
on the mailing list). Best yet in crowded Beverly Hills,
there is free, two-hour public parking less than a block
away, giving enthusiasts the opportunity to browse and linger
to their hearts' content.
 The American Tea Room
401 N. Canon Dr.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310-271-7922
www.americantearoom.com
Hours: Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun. 12 p.m.-5 p.m.
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