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Business Travel Guide: Hong Kong


Money, honey. That’s what Hong Kong is—and always has been—about. Making it and spending it are highest on the list of how residents and visitors spend their time. The pirates and opium trade that jump-started HK are long gone, the 1997 Chinese takeover that was predicted to crash the economy certainly had its influence, and SARS put a crimp in the tourism industry, but still the city is booming, as is evidenced by the stock-brokering, banking, media moguling and shopping ‘til you drop that takes place virtually round the clock. As for those who wonder about the face of the once British territory now that it’s had time to settle into being a Special Administrative Region of China, it’s as complex a combination of East and West as ever, with its soaring skyscrapers and back alleys filled with dim sum and astrologers. The most notable change, as far as corporate life is concerned, is the invasion of businesspeople from mainland China, as well as the influx of foreign investors using HK as their gateway to the mainland. While many argue that the city is on an inevitable decline as a financial tiger, we say otherwise. In fact, we feel that this is Hong Kong’s most exhilarating moment, and there’s no better time to do business here than now.


Facts to Know Before You Go

Currency: HK Dollar

Despite a takeover by China, Hong Kong maintains autonomy over its currency, the HK dollar, which has been fixed since the early 1980s at HK$7.8 to the U.S. dollar; rates in other currencies can be calculated off their U.S. exchange. Notes are issued by three banks (each has its own design). There are numerous exchange outlets at the airport, and countless ATMS throughout the city that dispense HK currency.

Transportation:

Opened in 1998 on Lantau Island, Hong Kong International Airport (www.hongkongairport.com) serves as a major gateway to mainland China. From here metered taxis are plentiful—flag fall is HK$15, and the cost to the Central District is about HK$340. But the best option for travel to downtown, as far as we’re concerned, is the MTR (Mass Transit Railway, www.mtr.com.hk) Airport Express. It takes less than half an hour; we suggest you purchase a round-trip pass at HK$180, good for one month. In addition, check with your hotel, as most offer free shuttle or limousine service from the airport. Once in town, MTR is easy to use, and unlimited use day passes are available. If you need to take a cab, keep this in mind: red taxis serve most destinations throughout Hong Kong, green taxis serve New Territories and the airport, and blue taxis serve Lantau and the airport.

Information:

For daily local and international news, Hong Kong’s English language newspapers are the South China Morning Post and The Standard. There are also local TV and radio stations in English. To find out what’s going on around town each week, check out the following free publications: What’s On—Hong Kong (available from the Tourist Board, www.discoverhongkong.com) and HK Magazine (available in restaurants, bars and shops).

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Where to Stay


Grand Hyatt Hong Kong
1 Harbour Rd.
Wanchai, Hong Kong
85-2-2588-1234
www.hongkong.hyatt.com
info@grandhyatt.com.hk

In a city flooded with venerable luxury business hotels, Hyatt International’s flagship property offers 556 comfortable, contemporary guestrooms and suites (the majority with Victoria Harbour views) and plenty of business amenities. Twenty-six meeting rooms are equipped with inter-room computer connectivity—temporary internal networks can be set up. Accommodations come with high-speed Internet, confidential fax machines and interactive TVs with Internet and email capabilities via cordless keyboards. There are eight floors of Grand Club accommodations with extensive business perks (take advantage of one-hour complimentary boardroom use per day) and Specialty Suites for VIP delegations. Eight restaurants and bars include Cantonese favorite One Harbour Road, the dramatic high ceilings of Grissini's with an excellent Sicilian chef, and the outdoor Grill in the warmer months for lush steaks and superb salads. The latest addition is a chic journey into residential spa and wellness, Plateau, with its own Zen rooms, balconies with city views, a cutting-edge gym, and a fabulous pool all by designer John Morford. A notch above the usual recreational offerings is Grand Cru, a 150-foot motor yacht.

InterContinental Hong Kong
18 Salisbury Rd.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
85-2-2721-1211
www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
hongkong@interconti.com

The InterContinental takes its business hotel status seriously. At the same time, it throws out a few surprises. Most notably: the restaurants SPOON by Alain Ducasse and Yan Toh Heen (see below), plus their in-house Steak House, with an excellent wine list and enormous American strip steaks, melting chocolate cakes, and platters of oyster. Nobu's first non-Japanese outlet in Asia is on the hotel's second floor. Formerly the Regent, this waterfront hotel has a contemporary new look and lots of business perks, including 24-hour business services, the largest ballroom in HK and harbor view meeting rooms. The 514 guestrooms and 92 suites (most with harbor and island views) come with high-speed Broadband Internet access. One notable amenity is the Club InterContinental Executive Lounge—with all the freebies of a typical corporate level lounge, it doesn’t require you to stay in a corporate level room. You simply sign up and pay a fee for the privileges. The food, dedicated concierge, and meeting rooms here are among the best, and the Presidential Suite is arguably the town's finest—available by the day or for a half-day event.

Le Meridien Cyberport
100 Cyberport Rd.
Hong Kong
85-2-2980-7788
hongkong.lemeridien.com

With its flashy, futuristic style (check expectations about HK’s colonial past at the door), the Cyberport is giving the old standbys a run for their money. And at just 173 rooms, it’s about as boutique as it gets among the upper echelon of business hotels. Taking its cues from the Philippe Starck school of design, this place is for the next generation of business travelers. There’s wireless connectivity throughout and access to a range of services, such as tablet PCs and cordless digital phones. The Art + Tech guestrooms have 42-inch plasma TVs and (take note!) glassed-walled bathrooms. The Club Floor on the top four levels features @Lounge, which comes with all the expected comps. Eight function rooms enjoy the benefit of outdoor spaces. Restaurants include Prompt, with al fresco dining.

Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong
5 Connaught Rd.
Central, Hong Kong
85-2-2522-0111
www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong

When it comes to flagship hotels, Hong Kong has its fair share. But the Mandarin Oriental is surely the most distinguished. Overlooking Victoria Harbour, it boasts a guest list mingling business titans with sultans, princesses and U.S. presidents, plus the crème de la crème of the Hong Kong beau monde. The style—both in the bedrooms and boardrooms—is classic with tasteful Asian touches like silk wall hangings and teak paneling. Most of the 486 guest rooms and 55 suites feature balconies, and all come with TV systems that access your email, STSN plug-and-play for laptops, and high-speed Internet access. Meeting and event spaces are classic-contemporary. Among the excellent restaurants are Pierre by French chef Pierre Gagnaire, Mandarin Grill for power dining with new design by Sir Terence Conran and the redone China House restaurant—featuring traditional Cantonese in an Art Deco atmosphere reminiscent of 1930s Shanghai. Tea here is still the draw for Hong Kong society and the rose petal jam and scones are rightfully legendary.

The Peninsula Hong Kong
Salisbury Rd.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
85-2-2920-2888
www.peninsula.com
pen@peninsula.com

The Peninsula is the Grande Dame of Hong Kong hotels. Dating back to 1928, it’s a bastion of tradition—exemplary service, a fleet of Rolls Royce limousines (there is now also helicopter shuttle service to the airport from the rooftop helipad) and Gaddi’s French restaurant, a local institution. The business center offers private working offices, and the rooms (both in the historic Main Building and newer tower) come with treats such as silent fax machines and TVs with video camera playback. At over 4,000 square-feet—and with conference room, mini gym and private office—The Peninsula Suite is a standout. To keep the hotel on the cutting edge: Felix 4 (see below), a stylish contemporary restaurant designed by Philippe Starck.

Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong
15 Queen's Rd.
Central, Hong Kong
85-2-2132-0188
www.mandarinoriental.com/landmark
lmhkg-enquiry@mohg.com

In a daring act of brand extension, the venerable Mandarin Oriental took a jimmy-step into the world of design and boutique hotels with their 2005-opening: the Landmark Mandarin Oriental. This property takes its name from the famous shopping building it inhabits. The emphasis is on style, which draws a huge customer base of fashion buyers, executives, and designers, but the hotel has the business polish of the mother property with fabulous private dining rooms, dedicated concierge services, and lots of in-room touches from in-house business cards to the best desk set-ups in any hotel in town. Visually, the deep browns, creams, polished woods, and swish bathrooms in the 113 rooms are the work of Los Angeles-based Peter Remedios; he's also responsible for the more exotic stylings of the spa. New Yorker Adam Tihany's playful hand is at work in the MO Bar, where you'll likely catch us having a newfangled high tea (wasabi in salmon finger sandwiches) amidst the moss green chairs and sculpted white glass bar meant to evoke a drawbridge, the lobby, and the soigne continental-style eatery, Amber, where 3,000-plus copper rods hang from the ceiling. A fine alternative for those wanting style without sacrificing the infrastructure of a traditional five-key hotel.



Where to Dine

Felix 4
The Peninsula Hong Kong
Salisbury Rd.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
85-2-2920-2888
www.peninsula.com
pen@peninsula.com
$$$$$

For those seeking an alternative to the clubby, old boys’ business dining that has long been a mainstay in Hong Kong, Felix is a breath of fresh air. The man behind the stylish décor? Über designer Philippe Starck. Ah, that explains it—the zinc cylinders, aluminum wall, curving glass façades and tiny disco. Reached by an elevator whose lights dim to set the mood as you ascend, the restaurant is on the 28th floor of The Peninsula Tower. The contemporary American menu is orchestrated by an ex-French Laundry chef. The bar makes excellent fruit martinis and riffs on bellinis.

Hutong
28/F One Peking Rd.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
85-2-3428-8342
$$$$$  

Calvin Yeung and Mabel Wong have become the first couple of Hong Kong’s cooking revival. They’ve followed the tiny Shui Hu Ju with a pair of stylish eateries inspired by up-country cooking. We had to wait in line fifteen minutes just to ascend in the elevator to the 12th-floor Times Square perch that houses Water Margin. Hand-carved wooden doors and swaths of concrete give the room an ancient feeling—with an echo. Hutong, meanwhile, is in suddenly-reviving Kowloon and has awesome 28th-floor panoramas of the Victoria Harbour and the cityscape. Nineteenth-century rooftops and tables sourced from mainland markets make for a dramatic re-imagination of the traditional Beijing courtyard. The former is thunderous and very familial; the latter moody and subtly glam. There are enchanting flavors to be found at both. Many hint at the Silk Road era and represent a sort of hybrid cooking with history as its teacher. Steamed scallops cloaked in a sensuous pumpkin puree speak to the earth-bound restraint of cooking in China’s colder provinces. Bamboo clams are cut julienne-thin, lightly bathed in rosewater, finished with hot peppers. Lamb ribs are de-boned and then deep-fried, their primal meatiness tamed by a chile-soy dip. Shredded pig’s throat with scallions and coriander is transformative. It tastes elegant and almost squid-like.

Steak House
Intercontinental Hong Kong
18 Salisbury Rd.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
85-2-2721-1211
www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
hongkong@interconti.com
 

Though one must wind past a hotel buffet, around a dark corner, and through a small corridor in the Intercontinental Hong Kong to enter the dining room, Steak House hides nothing once a meal begins. Like the sides of creamed spinach and mashed potatoes it pushes like any good steakhouse, it just when to be boisterously over-the-top and just when to sit back and let the hulking plates of Canadian angus and Australian wagyu do the talking. Table side presentations of different salts (Hawaiian pink, sel de guerande) and knives (Japanese-made global or the French classic Laguiole?) come off as cheeky and fun when done by a smiling waiter in a red apron. And there's a smartly purposeful under-statement to the servers that underlines what makes the American-style steakhouse experience great in the first place: in the end, it's a highly focused meal that's all about the meat. Here, they're all grilled over charcoal and—be it Dutch milk-fed veal, an entire leg of lamb, or a bone-in ribeye—there's a nip of smoke in the meat to offset the chew and sweet pink juices when cooked medium rare. (Our only quibbles: They could improve on a thicker, saltier crust and sear. And what's that tacky salad bar?). One of Hong Kong's best sommeliers steers guests through a fine wine list that's strong on New World reds like American Pinot or Rhône-style Australian. If there's any hesitation to ordering dessert, ignore it and in fact be sure to pre-order at least one of the chocolate fondant or apple tarte tatin. They're cartoonishly big and admirably taste, and that's exactly why meals here succeed.

KEE Club
32 Wellington St.
Central, Hong Kong
85-2-2810-9000
 

Capturing the zeitgeist of the new/old Hong Kong is KEE Club on Wellington Street. Riotous fun can be had thanks to the eclectic room—decked out with Picasso prints, African statuettes, and a spunky retro vibe—and a glamorous crowd. For lunch one orders from Yung Kee downstairs, the shop famed Asia-wide for roast goose and textbook Canton-style cooking. Deep-fried taro stuffed with stewed pork, scallops stir-fried with lychees and ginger, and Chui Chow dumplings are all excellent. KEE is the private self—full of import, but sophisticated fun when poked —that Hong Kong ought show more often in public. By evening, the dining room is presided over by a kitchen team which spent a half-year training with Ferran Adria in Spain. They do Italian contemporary cuisine here that is highly adventurous, but well-matched with a cellar stocked to the brim with first-growth and rare Burgundy. Late-night, the dining room turns into a lounge for the beautiful people and celebrities of Hong Kong. Be-friend your hotel concierge at places like Grand Hyatt and Peninsula to get a table

The Peak Lookout
121 Peak Rd.
Victoria Peak, Hong Kong
85-2-2849-1000
www.thepeaklookout.com.hk
info@peaklookout.com.hk
$$$$$

This former tram station, built in 1888, may seem like an unusual option for business wining and dining, but it offers a nice change from the typical choices. Set atop Victoria Peak, its views over Lamma Channel—make sure to book a table on the terrace—are superb, especially at night. And if mist rolls in, the views may diminish, but the already pleasant atmosphere seems to improve in direct proportion with the glow of candlelight and charcoal braziers to ward off the chill. Offering tandoori, satay, linguine and grilled steak, the menu is eclectic, to say the least.

Yan Toh Hee
InterContinental Hong Kong
18 Salisbury Rd.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
85-2-2721-1211
www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
hongkong@interconti.com
$$$$$

When it took over from the Regent, the InterContinental put itself on the map with its superb selection of restaurants, including the haute Yan Toh Hee. For Cantonese, it’s among the top in town, thanks to chef Cheung Kam Chuen (who served a stint in this same space during the hotel’s previous incarnation). We like the earthiness of his food, which includes signatures such as deep friend garoupa with pine nuts and pickles. This is also a good choice for a dim sum lunch.



Off the Clock

Dragon-I
60 Wyndham St.
Central, Hong Kong
85-2-3110-1222
www.dragon-i.com.hk

D-I, as locals call it, has become a legend in both local and global circles. Owner Gilbert Leung hired designer India Mahdavi to create a modern Oriental fantasy with silk lanterns, circular banquettes, and even a birdcage on the terrace. There's a dim sum lunch during daylight hours and contemporary Japanese food in the evening, but its the after-dark and late-hours action that counts most. Models, celebrities, captains of industry East and West all congregate here for the scene—very, very beautiful thanks to hundreds of models who come here nightly—and the dance floor.


Aqua Spirit
29-30/F One Peking Rd.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
85-2-3427-2288
aqua@aqua.com.hk

The flagship bar of the group behind Hutong sits lofted above their 29th-floor Italian restaurant, Aqua Roma. It's got Industrial design-style and is barely lit save for sexy spot-lights on tables, the radiant light of the skyline, and an under-lit bar. The drinks, like lychee bellinis, are superb, the wine list strong on blockbuster Italian reds and vintage Champagne, and the lounge seating is small, but perfectly made for business gatherings. Reserve the couch seating next to the bar or, for something more private, the semi-circular booths set looking over Kowloon and its urban sprawl in the back.


SPOON by Alain Ducasse
18 Salisbury Rd.
Kowloon, Hong Kong
85-2-2721-1211
www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
spoonbyalainducasse.hk@interconti.com
 
Located in the Intercontinental Hong Kong, Spoon is a trendy place to unwind after a long day doing business. Although SPOON is primarily a restaurant, the bar is a great spot to meet fellow travelers and have a cocktail in a chic atmosphere. The bar's design, by Tony Chi, is pure fun, with a leather and chrome bar counter, eel skin upholstered chairs, sofas with mink cushions and 550 hand-blown glass spoons dangling from the ceiling.

Aqua Luna
85 2 2116 8821
aqualuna@aqua.com.hk

For entertaining clients, this is one of the most intriguing charters in Asia. The famous, high-style restaurant group behind Hutong and Aqua has taken their areas of expertise—dramatically chic looks, Western style, but superb Chinese food—and applied them to that most famous of Hong Kong icons, the Victoria Harbour junk. It's possible to charter the boat and do bespoke menus, cocktails, and journeys in front of the famous skyline. The 28-meter ship was built by craftsmen in their 1980s and hand-detailed. It does 45-minute sails daily between hong Kong and Kowloon, but can be rented out entirely.

Festivals
www.discoverhongkong.com

Given that celebrations coincide with every wax and wane of the moon, you’ll be hard pressed to not find a festival when you’re in town. The most notorious is the New Year Festival in late-January or early-February, although keep in mind that this isn’t the best time for business travelers as many companies shut down for the party. The Dragon Boat Festival in June is good fun with the racing of elaborately decorated dragon boats. One of our favorites is the Mid-Autumn Festival in September, which finds public spaces and parks filled with families wielding lanterns and chowing down on moon cakes. With their feasts, fortune-telling, Chinese opera and more, festivals offer unbeatable entertainment.

Happy Valley Racetrack
1 Sports Rd.
Happy Valley, Hong Kong
85-2-2966-8111
www.hkjc.com/english/index.asp

Good luck finding a sport more popular in Hong Kong than horse racing. It’s a must see cultural event, particularly at the Happy Valley Racetrack, where the first race was run in 1846. Today the track is a modern marvel, with enormous video screens, computer betting and room for 35,000 spectators. In season (September through June) you can mingle with locals in the standing room only section, or flash your passport—and pay a small fee—for access to the exclusive Hong Kong Jockey Club Members’ Enclosure. Races are on Wednesday evenings and the occasional Saturday and Sunday afternoons.

Hiking Lantau Island
www.hiking.com.hk/english/

For those who think Hong Kong is all skyscrapers and stock markets, think again. More than 40 percent of HK is made up of nature parks. With these parks come excellent hiking trails, particularly on Lantao Island, which has over forty miles of marked trails. The trails are divided into twelve sections, and if you’re looking for the ultimate coffee break, this is it. Depending on which section you hike, you may encounter temples, traditional Chinese gardens, fishing villages and beaches. The pinnacle hike: a two-and-a-half hour trek to the top of Lantao Peak.

The Jockey Club Kau Sai Chau Public Golf Course Limited
New Territories, Hong Kong
85-2-2791-3388
www.kscgolf.org.hk
jckscpgc@kscgolf.org.hk

Hong Kong has a wealth of good golf clubs (www.hkga.com), but most are private and allow outsiders only on select days on a first come basis. That’s one of the things that makes this public course—the only one in HK—so popular. With 36 holes designed by Gary Player, it offers two courses for medium and advanced level players. The course sits at the north end of Kau Sai Chau Island and is considered to be one of the most scenic in Asia. It offers a refreshing escape from the concrete jungle, as well as a driving range and putting facility. Priority is given to Hong Kong residents, but being able to book a week in advance helps. Beware windy days.


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P092004 (Updated: 11/09/07 AK)

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