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City of Enchantment
The Golden Allure of Albuquerque
By Charlotte Balcomb Lane

Memorable Pink Sunset

Officially nicknamed the “land of enchantment,” New Mexico could just as easily be called the “land of sunshine.” The sun is out year-round, warming winter days and creating perfect conditions for hiking, biking or snowboarding. And while new visitors to the state’s largest city sometimes expect to find a hot, parched desert, Albuquerque and its surroundings actually offer a rich and varied landscape of soaring mountains, undulating foothills, distant mesas and lush river valleys. The Sandia Mountains tower to the east of the city, creating an ever-changing vista of colors, shadows and textures. After one Albuquerque sunset, you’ll understand why the early Spanish explorers named them sandia or watermelon: they turn a bright vermillion each evening at dusk.

For hundreds of years, the golden light in New Mexico has been captivating artists, painters and travelers. Although Albuquerque is a bustling modern city with high rises and a sizeable airport, the quality of the time-honored light hasn’t dimmed. Come experience it yourself in three fun-filled days.

Green Chile

The cuisines of New Mexico are as varied as its landscape and the cultures of its peoples—a distinctive blend of Native American, Hispanic and American traditions. Most New Mexican food restaurants are inexpensive and casual, offering filling and satisfying food. Hundreds of small family-owned restaurants statewide serve traditional New Mexican foods: enchiladas, burritos and tacos, usually smothered in red or green chile sauces. Green chile sauce is made from fresh or frozen green chile pods and can range from quite spicy to very mild. Red chile sauce, made from dried mature red pods that are soaked and puréed to create a rich, velvety liquid that’s generally milder than green chile. Order any dish “Christmas-style” and you’ll get half red and half green. With the advantages of modern transportation, restaurants in Albuquerque offer fresh seafood and specialty ingredients from around the world. The state also has many small, specialty farms that produce wonderful goat cheeses, free range-chickens, fresh chile peppers and vegetables.

New Mexico is the nation’s fifth largest state in land area, so be prepared to spend some time in a car to see all the sights within easy range of Albuquerque. If you fly in, rent a car and ask for unlimited mileage. There’s plenty to enjoy in just three days.

DAY 1

A great portion of your time will probably be spent in the Old Town area, so you might want to consider spending the night there. Among several quaint B&B’s, the historic Böttger Mansion, built in 1910, features seven individual guest rooms with bathrooms and a two-room suite. For more modern accommodations, try the handsome Sheraton Old Town, which offers a swimming pool, spa, salon, bar and two restaurants. The short drive east on historic Route 66 to downtown Albuquerque puts several more hotels and motels within reach. Some good choices include The Hotel Blue, a haven for rock stars in town for concerts, and the Hyatt Regency Albuquerque, ideal for business travelers.

Find Southwestern Art in Old Town's Many Galleries

The first stop on any trip to Albuquerque is Old Town, first settled in 1706. A square plaza that formed the heart of the original city, Old Town today is filled with locally owned shops, boutiques and restaurants. It’s the perfect size to stroll and stretch travel-cramped legs. If you’re looking for good turquoise or silver jewelry, this is a great place to shop. During warm weather, vendors set out blankets under the portal on the east side of the plaza, selling jewelry and souvenirs. Don’t be afraid to bargain with them. The best quality goods, however, are found in Old Town’s galleries and retail stores. Take a brief tour of the magnificent and historic San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church on the north side of the plaza. It’s a fine example of early New Mexican adobe architecture, with a courtyard in front crowned by a tall adobe steeple. For more information about Old Town, including ghost sightings, check out the Old Town Visitors Center.

Old Town offers many dining options. One favorite lunch spot is La Crêpe Michel, a fine country French restaurant in a tiny historic adobe house. A more upscale choice is Seasons Rotisserie & Grill in San Felipe Plaza, one of Albuquerque’s liveliest and best contemporary American restaurants. In warm weather, sit at tables set up on the sidewalk or on the spacious second-floor balcony. During the summer, Seasons has jazz upstairs; but regardless of the season, there is the view of the Sandia Mountains and the steeple of San Felipe de Neri.

For good New Mexican food, try Little Anita New Mexican Foods on the corner of Mountain Road and Rio Grande Boulevard. The breakfast burritos are always a hit; so are the carne adovada burritos, stuffed with tender oven-baked boneless pork marinated in red chile. Little Anita’s is a good choice for breakfast because it opens at 7 a.m. and there’s a take-out window for fast service.

Mountain Road is also Albuquerque’s Museum Row, with the New Mexico Museum of Natural History & Science on one side of the street and the newly renovated Albuquerque Museum on the other. The Museum of Natural History highlights the changing ecology of New Mexico and has a vast display of Jurassic-age dinosaurs unearthed in the state, including the life-sized Seismosaurus, a 110-foot plant-eating dinosaur that was one of the largest creatures ever to walk the earth. A full tour of the museum will take about three hours or more if you include the movie at the DynaTheater.

The Albuquerque Museum houses several art and sculpture galleries, in addition to exhibits on the history of the city. From the days of the earliest Pueblo Indians, to the coming of the Spanish settlers, to the founding of the railroad, Albuquerque has always been a cultural crossroads. The sculpture garden is a great place to unwind. During summer weekends, the museum hosts jazz and salsa concerts outside in the amphitheater.

Two other museums are also within walking distance on Mountain Road. The National Atomic Museum dedicates its exhibits to the uses of atomic energy. Explora offers hands-on exhibits that teach children and adults about the natural wonders of our world, from static electricity to how tornados are formed.

Artichoke Café

Downtown has turned into a lively night spot, with clubs, restaurants, movie theaters, shops and a performing arts center within walking distance. If you’re looking for a white-tablecloth dining experience, try McGrath’s Restaurant, the signature restaurant in the Hyatt Regency Albuquerque. The menu offers game, steaks, pasta and seafood, plus a terrific wine list. After dinner, stroll Central Avenue, the original Route 66.

Another good weekend dinner choice downtown is the Gold Street Caffè, a cozy, seasonal American bistro with great food and good desserts. It’s open for dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays. The Gold Street Caffè is also a great choice for breakfast, serving fantastic fresh baked pastries. A short drive up Central Avenue is the Artichoke Café, long considered one of Albuquerque’s best restaurants. Be sure to make reservations, as it can be crowded, especially on weekends. If you want to dine in Old Town, a stellar option is the tiny Ambrozia Café & Wine Bar, with a changing menu of contemporary American cuisine and a great wine list.

* Sunset and Green Chile images courtesy of www.marblestreetstudio.com

(Updated: 04/04/08 ET)

WHERE TO STAY

Böttger Mansion
110 San Felipe NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505-243-3639, 800-758-3639
www.bottger.com

The Hotel Blue
717 Central Ave. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
505-924-2400, 877-878-4868
www.thehotelblue.com

Hyatt Regency Albuquerque
330 Tijeras Ave. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
505-766-4700
albuquerque.hyatt.com

La Posada de Albuquerque
125 Second St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
505-242-9090, 800-777-5732
www.laposada-abq.com

Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town
800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505-843-6000
hhandr.com