A
Taste of Honey
By André Gayot |
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Jewel of the Indonesian Archipelago |
There
are about 18,000 islands and islets in the Indonesian archipelago,
yet most of us can only spell the name of one, and what a
name it is! Has anyone on earth not dreamed to set foot on
this legendary land, synonymous with paradise on earth? The
dream today can come true. Open to modern tourism—mass
transportation, hotels and various accommodations everywhere,
good prices—this destination attracts millions of visitors
from all over. Asians, Europeans and Americans want their
share of the famous, sweet Balinese life. Bali could be just
another stretch of land like many others in the Indian Ocean.
But what makes Bali so special is a je ne sais quoi
of an exotic essence, a medley of grace, beauty, and serendipity
heralded by a name that sounds and feels like honey. Discover
for yourself this subtle chemistry and then decide if Bali
is still the land of your dreams.
Have
mass tourism and the dismaying Kuta bombing chipped Bali's
fabulous image? There's a Bali for all tastes. A certain "old"
Bali has survived the tourism era, which is now the main resource
of this small (140 kilometers long, 80 kilometers wide) volcanic
island. A fertile soil supports a lively agriculture of rice,
copra, spices, fruits, and cattle but does not generate as
much cash as tourists. If a bath in the past is what you expect,
it is commendable to skip the tourist concentration of Kuta
and its hundreds of hotels, bars, discos, restaurants and
shops—unless you choose to rock 'n' roll. Be aware though
that the merry party ambience has been tarnished since the
tragic terrorist attack that left two hundred Australian youngsters
dead in a bombed disco. The other Bali, the tranquil one that
carries the vestiges of a rich history is waiting for you.
Most
of the hotels are located on the beautiful beaches of Kuta,
Legian Nusa Dua and Sanur on the southwestern and eastern
tip in a radius of 25 kilometers from the airport (Denpasar),
sparing the authenticity of large areas particularly on the
northern coast where very few vacationers dare to venture.
Lovina Beach, a quiet resort on a volcanic sand beach, is
more typical of this ancestral Bali that also boasts beautiful
reefs with colorful tropical fishes and off the coast playful
dolphins to boot.
Treading
the back roads, climbing the slopes of still smoldering volcanoes,
roaming the paths of the jungle is not necessary to enjoy
a stint in Bali. Here are our suggestions to make the most
of this island.
DAY
1
 |
The
Bay of Jimbaran:
A Slice of Paradise |
On
the first day, keep in mind that you have been transported
to an equatorial climate. The priority is to recuperate from
the long here. Rest! It is time to unwind and to don your
mind with a sarong (that piece of tartan cloth the Indonesians
wrap around their hips).
Among
the best hotels, we found the Four
Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, a haven of tranquility,
to be the right stage for the transition. Tucked on a hill
dubbed Bukit Perma (beautiful hill), it offers a condensed
version of Bali by the sea. Far from the hustle and bustle
of Kuta and Legian it presents to its guests almost all they
could experience during their stay in Bali (but with much
more effort): the beach, the music, the dances (twice a week),
the art, the exotic food, the relaxation. There's even a cooking
school.
It
feels like supreme decadence to unwind in your own villa (there
are 147 of them altogether) on the edge of your private swimming
pool and whirlpool, or to sip a drink on your patio overlooking
the bay of Jimbaran.
You
wonder why you should venture anywhere else, since a short
walk or ride on the property will lead you to the concert
hall or to the ballet theater. Don't' feel like walking? Call
an electric cart that pops up immediately in front of your
door. It whisks you anywhere you want to go within the compounds
spreading from the hill all the way down to the beach. Back
from the sea, after the dance show, you can do no less to
reach Nirvana than indulge in a Balinese massage at the spa.
You'll be ready for a Rijstafel at the restaurant on
the terrace watching the moonbeams on the water. Paradoxically,
this traditional Indonesian fare inspired by the former Dutch
colonists and concocted by chef Patrick Bouchet tasted
more authentic, spicy and pungent than the ones we had in
supposedly more typical, local eateries.
The
tasty food, the massage, the still of the night can't miss
to put you rapidly and deeply to sleep under the mosquito
net, for, yes, there are some of these insects flying around.
All this dedication—you cannot find a more smiling and
devoted staff—comes at a price. But if you can afford
it, it's worth the money, for this is an unforgettable experience.
The
beautiful Jimbaran Bay also boasts the Intercontinental
Resort Bali.
(Updated: 11/09/07 AK)
