Favored subject of the Hudson River School painters and site of Rip Van Winkle's enchanted nap, the Catskills were famously the first wilderness to inspire a frontier identity in early American art and writing. Washington Irving wrote, "Of all the scenery of the Hudson, the Kaatskill Mountains had the most witching effect on my boyish imagination." Two centuries later, there's no place closer to the big cities of the Northeastern seaboard that remains so wild. Just two and a half hours from the center of New York City, snowy winters and verdant summers provide four seasons of outdoor recreation, and a beautiful backdrop for a weekend away any time of year.
Roughly six miles west from the near sea-level elevation of the Hudson River, the first peaks rise to form the two thousand-foot Catskill Escarpment, a dramatic and sudden height from which points in five states can be seen on a clear day. From here, the Catskills hit their highest peaks in northern Ulster and southern Greene counties, heart of the 700,000-acre Catskill State Park. The mountains, (which, surprisingly, are not mountains at all in geologic terms, but rather the remnants of an eroded plateau) taper off in height towards the south and west until they continue as part of the Allegheny plateau in Pennsylvania.
The resort culture of the Catskills has been reinventing itself since the region first became popular for vacationing in the mid-1800s. The Catskill Mountain House, built in 1824, was the best known of many palatial retreats, and was visited by three US Presidents. Sadly, it was abandoned after 1941 and burned in 1963, but hikers can still enjoy spectacular views from atop the bluffs where it once stood. Though not actually in the Catskills, but rather 45 minutes away on a private preserve atop the Shawangunk Ridge, the Mohonk Mountain House is the last surviving of these grand mountain hotels.
By the mid-twentieth century, the southern tier of the Catskill Mountains had become extremely popular, especially among people of Jewish descent living in the New York area. Owing to the cold beet soup native to Eastern Europe, the area earned the moniker "Borscht Belt," and its great resorts—especially the famed Grossinger's—gave rise to an entertainment circuit where comedians from Woody Allen to George Burns performed. Home air conditioning and cheaper air travel helped to slow business, and by the 1990s, most of the big hotels were closed.
Recently, there has been an influx of second-home buyers and a renewed interest in Catskills culture and history. Dining options are excellent with many restaurants serving up native vegetables and meats from Catskill farmers, and the region is peppered with boutique hotels and cozy bed and breakfasts dating to the 19th century. Two establishments we recommend are in the hamlet of Tannersville, in the northeastern part of the Catskills where Hunter and Windham ski areas are located: the 15-room The Eggery Inn, a more than 100-year-old three story farmhouse with a spectacular view of the mountains from the dining room, and the Deer Mountain Inn. Built as a summerhouse over a hundred years ago, the Deer Mountain Inn is now a romantic B&B with seven rooms, two with their own fireplaces.
Slightly south and west, closer to Belleayre Mountain's ski slopes, the Emerson Resort & Spa in Mt. Tremper offers modern luxury accommodation in either the adult-oriented inn, with fireplaces, Swiss showers, and access to the spa facilities, or the family friendly lodge next door, with two-floor suites, whirlpool Jacuzzis and balconies overlooking the landscape.
Other good spots to consider include The Roxbury, a wacky yet elegant refurbished roadside motel that pays tribute to the 1970s with room names like the "Shagadelic" and "George's Spacepad," and the comfortable Andes Hotel. Built in 1850 and in the middle of the historic village, the inn features a casual atmosphere with recently renovated rooms at surprisingly good prices. The restaurant is run by a Culinary Institute graduate, has a good wine list, and offers over 80 kinds of beer.
Finally, if you are looking to orient your stay towards the outdoors, you could always try camping. The North-South lake campground is popular, near some of the most visited hiking trails, and puts you right next to the lake where you can boat, fish, or swim at the pristine sandy-bottomed beach.
Since it is helpful to have a car once you are there, we suggest that you make the drive up I-87 from New York City. However, direct bus service is available and modestly priced through Adirondack Trailways to both the Hunter Mountain and Windham Mountain resorts. Service operates daily from Manhattan, and takes about three and a half hours one way. Smiley's Taxi provides transport primarily to and from Hunter Mountain from close by Tannersville, though trips farther afield can be arranged.
DAY 1
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| Kaaterskill Falls |
Following breakfast at your lodging, you can begin your trip by getting the lay of the land and doing some exploring. A tour through the area can be particularly striking during fall. The Catskills are famous for foliage, and while the timing for peak color varies from year to year based on weather conditions, the end of September is a good bet for viewing the most brilliant hues.
A good place to start is the drive west on Route 23A. This is a grand entrance to the mountains, as your ascent will wend precipitously up a break in the escarpment. About halfway up you will see signs for Kaaterskill Falls. Highest in New York State at 260 feet, you will be able to park and hike a short but challenging 0.4-mile trail to view them up close. Head here early in the day to avoid crowds. Once you get back in the car, another few miles will bring you to the town of Tannersville. After lunch at the Village Bistro, enjoy a walk around the Mountaintop Arboretum, boasting native and exotic mountain species on 10 acres of gardens and paths.
From Tannersville, continue on Route 23A until you make a left on Route 214 towards Phoenicia, a classic small town with shops along Main Street, straddling the Esopus Creek. If it's hot out, take a dip in the creek aboard an inner tube. Town Tinker Tube Rental can provide you with everything you need for a relaxing afternoon float down river. You don't need any experience, and you can either choose to travel down the calmer section of the creek, or if you're up for a bumpier ride, there's also a more adventurous run. Each takes about 2 hours. You'll end up just a few miles downstream where a special tube taxi will pick you up.
Otherwise, since route 214 ends with Phoenicia, head east on Route 28. The road will soon follow the edge of the Ashokan Reservoir, which despite its distance 130 miles away from New York, serves as one of the city's primary water sources, reaching 190-foot depths. Making a left at Route 375 will take you right in to the town of Woodstock, famous for lending its name to the 1969 festival and for its large concentration of artists. The Woodstock Center for Photography has excellent rotating exhibitions, and is open year-round from 12 to 5, Wednesday through Sunday. After taking in the sights, eat in town or make a reservation for dinner at the understated Bear Café in neighboring Bearsville. A gourmet experience well integrated with the outdoors, the restaurant is located next to a rushing stream with a gorgeous stone patio and gardens. Local ingredients blend with international influences to create inventive entrees and daily specials, while classics like filet mignon, an award-winning wine selection, and dessert choices that include treats like crème brulee or Belgian Chocolate melt-away cake round out the menu.
After dinner, check the schedule of the Colony Café in the center of Woodstock. Housed in a close to century-old hotel, the live music venue's eclectic programming includes original music by local and nationally acclaimed artists ranging from bluegrass to funk and reggae dance parties, with performances seven nights a week.
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