Cleveland, Ohio 72-Hour Vacation

The Lake Effect
Exploring the Hottest Spots in Cleveland's Diverse Neighborhoods
By Ivan J. Sheehan

City View from the Flats

Few American locales (saving, perhaps, New Jersey) have received as much critical, albeit comedic, attention from national pundits as Cleveland. For years, the city—officially incorporated in the early 19th century and named for General Moses Cleaveland—has been derided as the "Mistake by the Lake" and been recognized with the unfortunate distinction of being home to a river that caught fire numerous times. However, modern-day Cleveland is an emerging midwestern metropolis, finding favor among national media outlets. From the East Coast to the West Coast, Americans are becoming increasingly familiar with the North Coast—so named for Cleveland's place along the Lake Erie shoreline—thanks to a city of rising stars: from an Iron Chef in chef and restaurateur Michael Symon to the city's new king, NBA superstar LeBron James. What the city may lack in size, it certainly makes up for with a wealth of culture, including world-class museums, such as the Cleveland Museum of Art and the Cleveland Museum of National History, and the internationally renowned Cleveland Orchestra. A modern melting pot, Cleveland's neighborhoods are often marked by strong ethnic ties, where one can live la dolce vita in Little Italy, partake in pierogi in Slavic Village or tour the Far East in the Asiatown neighborhood. Most Clevelanders identify themselves as either East Siders or West Siders, claiming allegiance to one side of the Cuyahoga River. In reality, each side of the Cuyahoga coin offers something special: a myriad of fine dining, intriguing galleries, late night hotspots, independent theater and a sublime mélange of shopping possibilities.

In terms of getting around, the city's grid of streets and highways are relatively straightforward; with the help of a road map (and the occasional assistance from a resident), renting a car from one of the numerous national car rental agencies is a worthwhile option for those flying into Cleveland Hopkins International Airport. There's also the Rapid, an easily navigated light-rail system, and cabs are available outside most downtown hotels and clubs, especially on the weekend.

Making your base at one of Cleveland's downtown hotels will put you in walking distance from a variety of big-ticket attractions, and staying at the epicenter of the city affords you relatively close proximity to East and West Side destinations. The Ritz-Carlton, Cleveland, and the Renaissance Hotel are connected to the Tower City entertainment complex, which also includes a multi-screen movie theater, convenience amenities (including a newsstand, food court and sundry shops), an assortment of retail stores and a terminal for the Rapid.

The patio of charming Glendennis

Other downtown hotels include the Hyatt Regency Cleveland at The Arcade, a National Historic Landmark located in the popular Gateway District; the Wyndham Cleveland at the famed Playhouse Square; and the Cleveland Marriott Downtown at Key Center. Each offers unique logistical advantages, depending on your interests. For instance, theater buffs will want to lodge at the Wyndham and arrange a tour of Playhouse Square's historic theaters or take in a show. For travelers keeping an eye on their lodging budget, Cleveland's downtown area offers many popular national hotel chains, including the Hampton Inn and the Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites, which are both located at the busy intersection of Cleveland's theater and Gateway districts, affording easy access to many attractions. The Holiday Inn Express features sizable rooms, some with striking views down historic Euclid Avenue. The Holiday Inn Select City Center Lakeshore is also a reliable bet and is close to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, Great Lakes Science Center and Voinovich Park. Further from downtown, the Brownstone Inn offers a bed and breakfast experience closer to the city center. Built in 1874, this four-story townhouse is five minutes from downtown attractions and is known to host visiting celebrities on a regular basis. The Glendennis Bed and Breakfast offers accommodations in a private 1860s home, just west of downtown in Cleveland's burgeoning Ohio City neighborhood.

DAY 1

For a busy day ahead, you'll want to fill up on a hearty breakfast from a local favorite like Juniper Grille on Carnegie Avenue, which offers well-prepared mainstays in a sleek, attractive setting. The Waterstreet Grill on Ninth Street is a perennial hotspot, thanks to a welcoming staff and relaxed environs with plenty of windows to let in the morning sun. Expect a decent crowd on weekends, however, as it's the place for downtown dwellers to start their a day with robust sunrise sustenance. (It's also the place many regroup from late night reveling in the city's raucous Warehouse District scene, which brims with trendy bars and clubs, such as the Velvet Dog and Mercury Lounge.) If you'd rather design your own breakfast or lunch, Constantino's Market, directly across the street from Waterstreet, offers an impressive selection of pre-made items, as well as an assortment of cheeses and gourmet goodies.

To find out what the trendiest Clevelanders are wearing, head to West Ninth Street, which has emerged as one of the city's most fashion forward shopping destinations, with hip boutiques such as Clothing Brigade, Suite Life and Style Lounge; the latter a denim destination catering to well-heeled folks.

A walk north on East Ninth Street will take you directly to the lake, where you can spend an afternoon exploring the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum or the Great Lakes Science Center. Weather permitting, Voinovich Bicentennial Park is an ideal spot for a lakeside picnic, with items from Constantino's Market.

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum

Sports fans should plan on scoring tickets to one of Cleveland's three professional sports teams. All of Cleveland's sports venues are within walking distance from Tower City or from hotels located in the historic Gateway District. Baseball fans will want to catch a Cleveland Indians game at the newly named Progressive Field, see LeBron in action at the neighboring Quicken Loans Arena, or cheer on the Browns in the rowdy Dawg Pound seats at Cleveland Browns Stadium. Easy to access, spectator-friendly and rich with tradition, each of Cleveland's major sports venues are a vital part of any quick trip to the city. Celebrate a victory—or drown sorrows—at Flannery’s Irish Pub on Prospect Avenue, the bar that famously offered to buy LeBron his first pint on the occasion of his 21st birthday.

Once you've experienced the sporting life, turn to one of downtown Cleveland's fine-dining destinations to soothe and fortify you for another full day. If you choose to stay at The Ritz-Carlton—arguably Cleveland's best hotel—you'll enjoy the hotel chain's legendary hospitality and first-class extras like a fitness center, sauna and elegant lobby lounge. Luckily, anyone can make plans to visit Muse, the hotel's elegant yet accessible contemporary restaurant, serving artistically plated continental fare, often incorporating ingredients from Ohio. With an emphasis on local ingredients and a menu geared toward experimentation, Muse encourages a sense of culinary play. At the Renaissance, enjoy a cocktail at the Lobby Court bar, or indulge your palate at Sans Souci, a Mediterranean restaurant lauded for its top-notch service, decadent cuisine and romantic atmosphere.

Michael Symon's Lola

Today, more so than ever, downtown is a destination for gourmets. At the helm of this whirlwind of restaurant activity is Michael Symon, the now famed Iron Chef of television's Food Network, and his ultra hip, sophisticated yet refreshingly casual spot, Lola, on East Fourth. The menu here exemplifies Symon's approach to cuisine, offering playful interpretations of Cleveland staples with a Mediterranean flair, and a view toward underutilized cuts of meat (the beef cheek pierogi are not to be missed). The street also offers a multi-level Mexican restaurant and expansive tequila bar with Zocalo Mexican Grill & Tequileria, Vietnamese cuisine at Saigon, and jazz and small plates at Wonder Bar. For after dinner activities, the lively street is also home to the House of Blues and a bowling alley for the new millennium, the Corner Alley Bar & Grill, as well as Pickwick & Frolic, a restaurant, cabaret, comedy club and martini bar under one roof.

Continue to Day 2