Since 1969, restaurant, hotel, travel & other witty reviews by a handpicked, worldwide team of discerning professionals—and your views, too.

Dallas City Trip

Dallas' vibrant nighttime skyline

Day 1 Day 2 Day 3
Where to Stay Where to Eat What to See & Do

Big Fun in Big D
Get a Taste of Modern Texas

While the "Dallas" television series, Dallas Cowboys and Tex-Mex cuisine have played a big part in putting Dallas on the map over the years, these days you'd be hard-pressed to pigeonhole Big D in such a narrow way. This growing metropolis is also known for its love of fashion, cosmopolitan flair and enviable art scene. No surprise really, since the influx of international corporations and high-tech enterprises that moved to Dallas back in the 80s brought in a variety of new residents. Now it's easy to find city slickers as well as more bohemian types in the neighborhoods that sit alongside downtown lofts and impressive skyscrapers.

Food in Dallas has always been a scene, too, and the celebrity chefs keep coming along with top mixologists. Of course, Dallas still plays to its roots, so line dancing at Gilley's is a popular tourist pastime, but so is an opera at the Winspear or a symphony at the Meyerson. Even for repeat visitors to Dallas, it is an ever-changing landscape, especially since the recent completion of the first of three bridges, The Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge. It spans the Trinity River as part of the Trinity River Project and forever changed the Dallas skyline.

Treat yourself to a stay at one of many lavish hotels, such as the Hotel Adolphus, a circa 1912 baroque masterpiece built by Missouri beer baron Adolph Busch. The Adolphus features 21 stories of beaux arts splendor, and over its history, it has housed guests ranging from Babe Ruth to Donald Trump. If you prefer a European-style boutique inn, book a room at the Hotel St. Germain — a small, exclusive hotel on Maple Avenue that includes a four-star dining room. Then there is the unusual and idiosyncratic Belmont Hotel, rising on a bluff above Oak Cliff overlooking downtown, which combines historic interest and modern luxury. The Belmont also has one of Dallas's best restaurants on site, Smoke. Some other comfortable hotels that offer good value are the Dallas Marriott City Center and the Grand Hyatt DFW.

A Standard King guest room at Grand Hyatt DFW in Dallas, Texas

Entertainment for the sports enthusiast abounds, with every major professional sport represented somewhere in the area. During basketball season, catch the Dallas Mavericks in action at the American Airlines Center, or the Dallas Stars during hockey season. Of course, Dallas has "America's Team," the Dallas Cowboys, playing football under the gigantic dome of their new stadium in Arlington and cheered on by the world's most famous cheerleaders.

Both auto and horse racing have imposing homes in the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex. At Lone Star Park, you can watch world-class thoroughbred racing from a seven-level, glass-enclosed building with sports bars, giant television screens and a restaurant. To experience the NASCAR phenomenon, drive north of Fort Worth to the Texas Motor Speedway, which has an estimated capacity of approximately 191,122 spectators — just be sure to check the website for directions because traffic comes to a dead standstill on Highway 114 West from Dallas on race day.

Although public transportation has made great strides with the opening of the DART rail line and expanded bus service, renting a car remains the best way to get around outside the downtown/Uptown area. Taxis are available, but you might not be able to readily hail one on the street, so expect to call for a cab and wait 15 to 20 minutes. While in downtown/Uptown, you can hitch a free ride on the McKinney Avenue Trolley Line, which travels from the Dallas Arts District to Cityplace Station and the West Village. The trolley line runs from the downtown hotels to the Arts District, and it's also handy for cruising around Uptown with its shops, galleries and bars.

Now about the weather: be sure to check the local forecast before you pack and head to Texas. Except in summer when it's always hot, Dallas can experience a snow and ice storm followed by balmy spring weather anytime from November to April — all in a mere 24 hours!

DALLAS DAY 1: ArtWalk, Museums and Fair Park

Start your day with breakfast at the The Dream Café at the Quadrangle, and fill up on breakfast tacos or fluffy pancakes washed down with plenty of good coffee. Another breakfast option for those interested in getting up-close-and-personal with locals is the Original Market Diner, a funky café that has been serving up biscuits and gravy since the fifties, with plenty of coconut cream pie on the side. Thus fortified, begin your exploration of downtown/Uptown.

The first stop on your agenda is the Arts District, where you will find 68 acres filled with art and award-winning architecture that are the crown jewels of the region's cultural life. You can hit all the highlights by following the ArtWalk — a free, self-guided 3.3 mile route through downtown featuring 30 pieces of art and architecture in the Arts District and downtown Dallas. The ArtWalk website has maps and other information to help guide you.

While on your walk, visit the Nasher Sculpture Center, the Trammell Crow Collection of Asian Art and the Dallas Museum of Art where you can grab some lunch in the Atrium Café. Also, check the schedule to see who will perform that evening at the Meyerson Symphony Center, the Wyly Theater Center and the AT&T Performing Arts Center. Your hotel concierge might be able to help you get tickets.

A peek inside the Nasher Sculpture Center in Dallas, Texas

Next stop is Dealey Plaza, the site of President Kennedy's assassination, and the Sixth Floor Museum located in what was the Texas School Book Depository from where Lee Harvey Oswald shot the president. Conspiracy theorists abound at the site, hawking newsletters and fact sheets blaming everyone from the Pope to aliens for the assassination.

If time and energy allow, continue on to Fair Park, home of the 1936 State Centennial and one of the most important collections of Art Deco buildings in the world. The State Fair of Texas runs from late September to mid-October, but the grounds are open all year and are home to the African American Museum, The Museum of Nature and Science, the Cotton Bowl, the splendid Hall of State and the restored Art Deco murals that grace the exteriors of the exhibition halls.

Evening is a good time to catch your breath at The Library Bar at the Warwick Melrose Hotel, drinking in the ambience of old school glamour along with your classic martini or cabernet. Downtown dinner spot Stephan Pyles Restaurant serves southwestern-goes-global cuisine. If your budget is more modest and you have a hankering for Tex-Mex, go to Mattito's in Uptown and sample the queso that the regulars swear by.

Continue to Day 2

* Dallas night Skyline image credit: Matt Pasant; Nasher Sculture Center image credit: Dallas Convention & Visitors Bureau


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