Fredericksburg, Texas 72-Hour Vacations

The blooming fields at Wildseed Farms

It's a little-known fact that the Texas winemaking tradition is the oldest in the country. Over the past 20 years, the Hill Country has blossomed into a food and wine destination. And finally, its reputation is starting to catch up with its heritage. Wild grapes have always been abundant along Texas' rivers and streams, yet cultivation did not begin until Spanish missionaries planted the first vineyard near El Paso in the mid 1600s. A few centuries later, the art of winemaking got a boost from European immigrants, who brought cuttings from their homeland. While the fledgling industry showed great promise, it went kaput in 1919 thanks to Prohibition. A surge in wine popularity in the 70s renewed interest in Texas' grape-growing capacity, and vineyards were replanted. Today, half of the state's wineries are found amidst the cedar trees and prickly pear cacti of the Hill Country, where sandy-loam soil and moderate weather promote robust fruit growth.

Full Moon Inn suite

The gateway to the Hill Country Wine Trail is a small town called Fredericksburg, equidistant from San Antonio or Austin. Fredericksburg is the Texas you expect: pastoral, historical and genuinely hospitable. What's unexpected is its unique German flavor, rooted deep as a Texas oak. Also famous for its succulent peaches and 40s-era nostalgia, Fredericksburg is the quintessential weekend getaway—prepare for an enchanting 72 hours.

Your home away from home for the next three days is likely to be one of 300 B&Bs, inns or cottages in the vicinity. We recommend the B&B Full Moon Inn, an original 1800s log cabin with all the modern amenities, and Cook's Cottage and Suites, where Victorian romance lives on. Or consult the local booking service, Gästehaus Schmidt, for a free referral. The staff will arrange a place that suits your itinerary and budget. If rustic isn't your style, the Inn on Baron's Creek offers executive comfort and an adjoining day spa two blocks from Main Street. A bit further out of town is an unforgettable lodging experience: a modern Mayan village called Trois Estates.

DAY 1

Down the road on the same side is Torre di Pietra (Italian for "Tower of Stone"). The large stone tasting room and gift shop offer a cool reprieve from the Texas sun. Overstuffed cowhide furniture frames a large fireplace, and a sandy terrace outside also offers shade to sip in. Live music on Saturdays draws a small crowd. The Red Flirt (blush) is a bestseller, but the Morcato and Merlot are also noteworthy.

Becker Vineyards Winery

Back to the car. You're minutes away from the crown jewel of the tour. Becker Vineyards has 36 acres of French vinifera grapes (vinifera refers to the type of grapes used in winemaking, not to be confused with table grapes like the Concord) such as Viognier and Cabernet Sauvignon. A reproduction German stone barn sets the scene as the tasting room. Sidle up to the antique bar for complimentary tastings (Becker's Musket Canelli, with its intense floral notes, is wildly popular). The picturesque grounds invite you to linger, so buy a glass and have a seat on the covered patio. Take in the long rows of purple Provençal lavender and coastal Bermuda. While you're finishing up, they'll probably announce a tour. Don't miss a behind-the-scenes look at how each vintage is aged in French and American oak barrels in the largest underground wine cellar in Texas. The guide will also showcase fermenting and bottling processes. You'll want the scent of lavender to stay with you, so buy a handmade soap to take home.

Last before lunch is Woodrose Winery, a boutique winery that affirms its grapes are proudly "stomped in Texas." The tasting room is a lodge modeled after the Lyndon B. Johnson homestead barn in nearby Johnson City. Try the 2003 Chenin Blanc, made with minimum fining and filtration.

Wine tasting at Becker Vineyards

Turn around and proceed back to Fredericksburg. Situated two blocks south of Main Street is The Peach Tree Restaurant, a family owned and run operation. A selection of filling quiches will soak up the wine you've consumed—choose from spinach ricotta, broccoli, ham and chicken in lemon pastry. After a bite, stop at the Peach Tree's Gift Gallery and peruse the black clay pottery from Colombia as well as cookbooks, paper goods and apparel.

Check in your accommodations and get settled a bit. Then, head west on Main Street for a scenic fifteen-minute drive to Chisholm Trail. This winery definitely has the best back-story: the Chisholm Trail was a legendary 19th-century route immortalized in western movies, country songs and early American poetry. Named after Scot-Cherokee trader Jesse Chisholm, the Trail stretched from the Texas-Mexico border all the way to Kansas. Herders used it to transport cattle, which fueled post-Civil War economic recovery. Texas had a surplus of longhorns (descendants of cattle brought over by the Spanish) at the time, so the cattlemen rounded up the livestock, cropped their ears, branded their hides and drove them to markets in the north. More than six million longhorns were transported via the Chisholm Trail, making it the largest recorded animal migration in history and establishing it forever as a source of Old West lore. Though the railroad would end the glory of the Chisholm Trail, the story still evokes nostalgia for campfires, chuck wagon cookouts and the cowboy life.

The Nest

Along the twisting road leading up to the winery, loose longhorns grazing pay homage to their fabled ancestors. Be sure to order the "Round up"—Texas-sized tastings of the entire list. The appropriately named Ghostrider, a light red blend with flavors of black cherry, plum and dates might inspire the purchase of a bottle (or two). After enjoying an expansive vineyard vista from the corral and a friendly game of giant checkers, it's back in the saddle again.

Time for a nap, then freshen up for dinner. Reservations are a good idea for Friday or Saturday nights at The Nest. A mile off the main drag, this cozy restaurant is a renovated home from the early 1900s. It sits in a residential neighborhood, imbuing it with an intimate ambience. Chef/owner John Wilkinson, formerly of The Ritz-Carlton Club, Aspen Highlands in Aspen prepares pan-seared sea scallops with a chipotle-lime hollandaise sauce and stuffed quail with green chili polenta that are both knockouts. If you save room, a dish of lavender ice cream is a sweet ending to a memorable meal.

Not ready to wrap up the day? A couple of the Biergartens along Main Street stay open. Hondo's on Main is a daughter's tribute to her zany father (the "clown prince" of nearby Luckenbach). Hondo's features local artists five nights a week. Live music performances are held every weekend at Rockbox's theater off Main. Catch family-friendly entertainment in the form of a professional variety show. Tickets cost $35-40 per adult admission. When you're tired of tapping your toes, get a good night's rest. There's more fun to be had tomorrow.

Continue to Day 2

* Wine tasting image by Daryl Whitworth