The Hamptons. A red velvet roped-out dance floor? The summer headquarters of the new Russian mafia lords? A noisy frat scene for overworked and overdosed Generation X'ers? No, there's much more to the long peninsula that stretches all the way to the most Eastern point in the United States.
Take in the landscape: A sunset over the undulating reed-covered marshy fields; a misty fall morning accompanied by the seasonal honking of the Canadian geese, or the smell of the ocean broth for a jog before breakfast. And then there's the light— one of the reasons artists and writers flocked to the East End of Long Island during the second half of the 20th century. Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning, Fairfield Porter and Frank O'Hara among many others, made their home in the ancient villages, imported chic bohemia and opened themselves up to the unique golden light, allowing it to shine into their work.
The 60's are well behind us and the small villages are now towns. Celebrity chefs open glam eateries and serve yuzu-marinated local sea scallops. Gucci and J. Crew have moved into Main Street and McMansions threaten the potato fields. So now's the perfect time to visit the Hamptons. Make the most of your three days by taking a leisurely road trip through the towns, starting in Montauk. On the second day, stay in East Hampton, the stately and elegant beach town and spend the third night in Sag Harbor for a whiff of Americana. To welcome you, a slew of delightful accommodations—from the ultra-luxurious 12-room Hedges Inn in East Hampton—to the family friendly Montauk Yacht Club Resort & Marina at the very tip of the continent. Another historic favorite, the American Hotel in Sag Harbor built in 1846 at the height of the whaling era, offers gorgeously appointed rooms in the center of the village, an elegant farm-to-table restaurant and an award-winning wine list.
DAY 1
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| Hedges Inn |
Start at the "Easternmost" tip of America and make your way back West. After a restful night at the newly renovated Montauk Yacht Club and Marina, grab breakfast at Montauk Bake Shoppe where devoted sweets addicts line up for great coffee and morning treats. Besides the luscious jelly croissant, the Cruffin, a muffin-crumb cake with cream cheese and fruit cannot be overlooked. Then drive out past the village to the Montauk Point Light House built in 1796, the oldest lighthouse in New York State. There, a small museum tells the rich past of the Montaukett Indians and the fishermen's century-old struggle against the sea. Climb 137 steps for an unforgettable panorama and a geography lesson: Block Island, Connecticut and even the distant coast of Rhode Island are visible on a clear day (children under 12 are not allowed to climb). On the way back West, families will want to stop at Rita's Stables and Petting Farm for a horse ride through the dunes or a date with piglets and goats. Check out the surfers and the dramatic 2.5 mile-beach at the Hither Hills State Park, where you can leave your car for a small fee. Most beaches in the Hamptons require a permit.
Lunch beckons, and to see the other side of town, drive five minutes to Gosman's Dock, a restaurant owned by the Gosman family since 1943. What started as a clam chowder stand is now a multiple restaurant complex with clothing boutiques, toy store and seafood shop. Pick a steamed lobster, clams casino, watch the boats go by and the seagull's "corrida." Feel like a boat ride? Walk to the docks where The Viking Fleet offers memorable ocean trips and whale or seal watching expedition for gawkers or serious fishermen.
Another option for lunch is to start the drive back West towards Napeague. Ten to fifteen minutes away, stop at The Lobster Roll, also known affectionately as "Lunch." No view there and a pretty simple shack, but the attraction comes in the form of a plump, meaty lobster roll that attracts crowds.
In the town of East Hampton, how about checking in at the sophisticated Hedges Inn with its New England style, or if you would rather stay closer to the water, choose East Hampton Point in the Springs area, a ten-minute drive from town. The Inn will provide you with a permit to Main Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches in the United States. East Hampton Point with its chic cottages and marina are built around a quiet pool area. There, you can decide to stay in for dinner and take advantage of the expansive deck and watch the sun disappear behind Three Mile Harbor.
Inside, a striking full-size mahogany sloop reaches all the way to the ceiling and adds to the nautical atmosphere. Grilled sea bass and cracked corn polenta accompanied by the sound of the breeze in the masts will round out a romantic evening. Another dinner option, if you don't mind a ten-minute drive, head to the stylish Nick and Toni's where you can taste delicious golden roasted free-range chicken and crispy zucchini chips, and perhaps even run into regulars Donna Karan and Steven Spielberg. Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, Lily Pond Club, a few minutes drive from Downtown East Hampton, packs them in until the wee hours for superior drinks and a mix of house and rock music. |
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