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Laguna Beach, California Travel Guide

Weekend Getaway


California's Riviera
Art Town Charms with Cliffs, Coves and Culture
by Sheryll Alexander


Laguna Beach has often been called California's Riviera for its laidback vibe and picturesque beaches
California's Riviera

Laguna Beach is a California destination like no other. Located in Orange County along the famed Pacific Coast Highway, Laguna Beach is a genuine slice of tropical paradise halfway between Los Angeles (50 miles to the north) and San Diego (60 miles to the south) tucked alongside several miles of scenic coastline that have been dubbed "California's Riviera." Laguna is oft compared to French or Italian "Riviera" towns because of its sophisticated style, which abundantly manifests itself through its downtown village, art culture, boutique shopping, gourmet eats, charming inns and luxury resorts. This comparison to Eurpoean-style elegance commands further merit due to Laguna's dramatic natural scenery, which includes pretty rolling hills, rugged cliffs, romantic coves, and white sand beaches.

Although Orange County is known as a car-centric, mostly suburban society, Laguna Beach is more of a walking city. The city's downtown is a short twenty-minute drive from John Wayne Airport (SNA) and renting a car is essential if you are going to visit cities and attractions outside of Laguna like Disneyland or Newport Beach. It is also possible to fly into Long Beach Airport (LGB) or Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), where you'll be in need of a car rental and a measure of mental preparation to deal with a long drive, which may take an hour or longer depending on Southern California's infamous traffic.

The city of Laguna Beach is essentially divided into three distinctive sections. North Laguna Beach is a residential district with many renowned art galleries, as well as the Laguna Beach Art Museum, drop-dead-gorgeous Heisler Park and Las Brisas restaurant, which is famous for offering a Sunday brunch atop a spectacular cliff. Downtown Laguna is a quaint, pedestrian-filled artistic village by the sea whose plentiful galleries, eateries, and boutiques are anchored by the crescent-shaped Main Beach. South Laguna is located just south of downtown along PCH and features laid-back locals, cool boutique hotels, dazzling beaches and some of Laguna's best restaurants and coffee houses.

The Surf & Sand pool deck in Laguna Beach
Surf & Sand Pool Deck
Each section of Laguna features hotels offering differently intriguing takes on the city's luxuriously relaxing charm. Inn at Laguna Beach, featuring spectacular ocean and cityscape views, sits next to Las Brisas and overlooks Main Beach in North Laguna. Hotel Laguna is a 1930's-era Spanish architectural masterpiece and stands proudly at the heart of Downtown Laguna. South Laguna is full of excellent boutique hotels and is home to the world-famous Montage Laguna Beach. One of the nation's most honored and beloved properties, the Montage is a Laguna jewel, featuring Craftsman-style bungalows built right into the cliffs, a stunning mosaic-lined pool, world-class food and drink, first-rate spa and access to one of the prettiest coves in the world.

South Laguna is also home to the coastal Surf & Sand Resort and Spa, a breathtaking on-the-beach venue which gained international renown for being the hotel of choice for former President Nixon's press corps whenever he retreated to the Western White House. Nearby, 20s-era hotel Hotel la Casa del Camino attracts major hipsters with its ten specially designed "Surf Suites", a breathtaking panoramic view at the hotel's Rooftop Lounge and the charming K'ya bistro. Also in the heart of South Laguna is family-run Laguna Riviera, which sits right on the water and has spectacular ocean views, a cozy indoor saline pool and Jacuzzi and suites with kitchens, dining spaces, fireplaces, porches and balconies.

Pacific Edge Hotel sits on the sand just south of Main Beach and features sunny, brightly-colored accommodations replete with retro modern décor, plush bedding and a pillow menu. Casa Laguna Inn & Spa is an ocean view B&B near South Laguna's Victoria Beach with a renovated 1920s cottage, fifteen rooms, five suites, a lush brick-lined garden, spa services, nightly wine tasting and a full-service seasonal breakfast.

LAGUNA BEACH ITINERARY: DAY 1

The serene and secluded Casa Laguna Inn & Spa
Casa Laguna Inn & Spa

No matter where you are staying in Laguna Beach, it's best to start your exploration of the city with a leisurely stroll in Laguna's downtown village. Begin your day along sleepy Ocean Avenue with breakfast at Café Zinc. Locals come here most mornings with their dogs to hang out on the sunny patio, drink strong coffee and eat healthy bagels and egg dishes. After breakfast, head down Forest Avenue and along the curves of the winding Pacific Coast Highway to delight in art galleries and boutique shops that sell everything from jewelry and shoes to surfing gear and clothing.

The art scene in Laguna has a long, illustrious history that is worth noting. It all began in 1903 when artist Norman St. Claire arrived from San Francisco and fell in love with the area's golden light and lovely seascapes. Within a few years, famous plein air landscape artists including William Wendt and Frank Cuprien flocked here. Today, Laguna has dozens of art galleries and is home to a world-class art museum and summer art festivals.

After you have strolled through the downtown village, experience the city's shoreline by cruising Main Beach. Start your jaunt by crossing Pacific Coast Highway at Laguna Avenue and walk down a slight hill next to iconic Hotel Laguna. You will be greeted by an idyllic scene from yesteryear, as waves from the big blue Pacific Ocean crash on perfectly smooth sand, couples snuggly walk along a weather-stained wooden boardwalk, kids play and seniors sit on benches. Farther down, a practically on-the-beach basketball court attracts hoopsters who frequently dribble sans shirts.

Once you've dipped your toes in the refreshingly cool Pacific, walk north past the basketball courts and up a rather steep hill towards Cliff Drive to check out the Laguna Art Museum. This North Laguna landmark makes for a soothing and inspiring stop to view its permanent exhibitions of California art and revolving exhibits focusing mostly on modern art.

Locals and visitors alike come to Las Brisas to watch the stunning Laguna sunset
Las Brisas at night
Right next to the Laguna Art Museum stands the historic and iconic Las Brisas restaurant. Sitting on the edge of a cliff overlooking Main Beach, Las Brisas has a commanding ocean view and offers contemporary Mexican dishes with finesse for breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. If you don't want to sit down for a full meal, pull up a chair on Las Brisas' outdoor patio, which has the same fantastic views along with a rose garden and a nearby romantic cliff-side gazebo.

If you don't see it, ask anyone at Las Brisas where to find the gazebo. They will point you to a sidewalk along Cliff Drive where a romantic wooden gazebo juts out from a scenic cliff. If you continue along this flower-lined sidewalk, you'll end up in Heisler Park. This park may be one of the most beautiful beach parks in the nation, as its majestic meandering sprawl contains a wealth of high cliffs, spectacular vistas, delicate tide pools, scenic walking trails, tiny coves and picnic areas. Don't be surprised if you see a wedding while you stroll through Heisler Park, as the City of Laguna allows couples to marry here on a romantic grassy knoll.

Visiting Laguna Beach on a Thursday evening? Think about participating in the city's First Thursday's Art Walk. Every first Thursday of the month from 6 p.m.-9 p.m., free trams take art lovers from designated stops all over the city to Laguna's renowned art galleries, many of which entice visitors with glasses of wine and plates of appetizers.

When you are ready for dinner, circle back to Pacific Coast Highway and grab a table at Watermarc. Chef Marc Cohen uses the venue's sleek metropolitan backdrop to serve up a host of specialty cocktails, forward-thinking "grazing plates," and modern takes on traditional entrées.

The Art-A-Fair Festival is one of Laguna Beach's most popular attractions
Art-A-Fair Festival

Downtown Laguna isn't known for its nightlife, save for The White House. Established as the city's first restaurant in 1918, sits in the midst of PCH's bustle and is a late-night spot to eat reasonably-priced contemporary cuisine, listen to live music and dance the night away.

For those visiting in the summer months, Laguna Beach is an arts Mecca. Thousands of art aficionados descend here for its annual "festival season." The summer frenzy all started in 1932 when The Festival of Arts and its world-famous live tableaux performance, Pageant of the Masters, was founded as a means to keep the city and its residential artists steady during the Great Depression. Today, Pageant tickets remain one of the most desirable tickets in town, as people from all over the globe clamor to get a glimpse of this incredible exhibit's "living pictures," where real people pose as temporary re-creations of classical works of art.

In 1966, local artists who felt that The Festival of Arts was under-promoting the local Laguna art scene set up their own summer festivals across the street from Festival grounds in a lush grove of eucalyptus trees and sage bushes. Today, the multi-sensory Sawdust Art Festival and Art-A-Fair have grown to become Laguna's most popular events. Typically held from the end of June through August, all three festivals feature art for sale, entertainment, food, demonstrations and kid-friendly activities.

MORE LAGUNA BEACH INFORMATION


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(Updated: 04/21/11 NW)