London, England 72-Hour Vacation

At once historical and ultra modern

The world may be changing, but London remains one of the world's great cities. Much of the capital's enduring and immediately obvious appeal comes from its unique historic buildings but at the same time London is one of the most cosmopolitan cities on the planet, accepting what the world brings, adopting and adapting and constantly renewing itself, making it an exciting and compelling place to visit. London is a city of contrasts: a center for world-class classical music and the place to dance the night away in any number of clubs. Its museums and galleries house the treasures of the past while commercial galleries and auction houses trade in the latest cutting-edge contemporary art. This ability to change and re-invent itself while keeping its essential character is the capital's great strength. Whole new areas are constantly being developed, from Paddington Basin to Docklands. Most spectacularly, as the 2012 Olympic Games edge closer, London is creating a whole new area of the East End with brand new stadiums, housing and sporting facilities, demonstrating the capital's great strength for rejuvenation.

London's top hotels offer a range of styles. For glamour, go for The Ritz London, Claridge's, The Dorchester and the stunningly renovated The Connaught; for contemporary chic, try One Aldwych. The Goring is a delightful family-owned and run hotel. New hotels have made an appearance. Malmaison is a former bank and is tucked away in Charterhouse Square. It now also has five bedrooms housed in the delightful nearby pub, the Fox & Anchor, at very reasonable rates. Good inexpensive individual hotels are difficult to find, but there are deals out there if you ask. Or try the ultra trendy Hoxton Hotel for good value rooms from £59 to £199 and an amazing £1 room sale (book way in advance). If you're using Eurostar, the Harlingford Hotel is a great find and walking distance from St. Pancras International Station.

DAY 1

Street scene

Today is all about history and culture as well as tradition, so start your day with a British standard: a fry-up, albeit a superior one of sausage, bacon and eggs at The Ritz London (though homesick Americans might prefer eggs Benedict and hash browns at Automat). Then make your way to the heart of royal London. Nothing as vulgar as public transportation goes past Buckingham Palace, so it's either a stroll through Green Park or a taxi ride. The Palace is a relatively new royal addition, bought by George III in 1762 and finally finished in the 1850s. The rather pompous building with its red plush and gilt state rooms is only open to the public from late July to the end of September, but throughout the year the adjoining Queen's Gallery puts on superb exhibitions of works taken from one of the world's greatest private art collections.

Nearby St. James's Park is the oldest of London's royal parks and is particularly attractive in summer for the views it offers.

Westminster has always been the political as well as the royal heart of London, with Whitehall and the Houses of Parliament the center of government. World War II was conducted from the subterranean depths of the Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms where a remarkably human look at the great wartime leader brings the now strangely archaic war alive. The Household Cavalry Museum, shows off the human and equine side of the famous Life Guards and the Blues and Royals. The public might see them at their ceremonial duties, but the museum also illustrates the real side of the soldiers' lives—as front line troops in Iraq and Afghanistan.

Harrods Department Store

The aristocracy who clustered around the monarch lived in and around St. James's—and its gentlemen's clubs and shops have changed little since they were patronized by the original 18th century dandies. From Tudor St. James's Palace, St. James's Street takes you past James Locke & Co, the hatters that made the plumed hat worn by the Duke of Wellington at the battle of Waterloo in 1812, and Berry Bros & Rudd, wine merchants to the wealthy and discerning, housed in a historic, dark wood-panelled setting.

On Piccadilly, the illustrious Fortnum and Mason has supplied the royal family with its groceries since the 1770s. A huge refurbishment has brought an upgraded, chic Food Hall and a cluster of wine bars and restaurants, including 1707 for the wine lover.

Mayfair, running north-south from Oxford Street to Piccadilly and east-west from Regent Street to Park Lane, was built by six great families, though the Grosvenor Estate, owned by the current, fabulously rich Gerald Cavendish Grosvenor, Duke of Westminster, is the only one surviving intact. Today Mayfair is a mix of homes and businesses, luxury hotels and foreign embassies. Its high street has always been Bond Street, known for classy designer shops and art galleries. Sotheby's continues to break records at its auctions, and has usefully added a very chic café to its charms. Detour into Brook Street for the charming Handel House Museum and the chance to photograph the blue plaque on number 24 next door, home to Jimi Hendrix from 1968 to 1969. Savile Row has resisted heavy competition from Hong Kong and is still the street for bespoke tailoring (the Prince of Wales gets his suits from Anderson & Sheppard). The Royal Academy puts on exhibitions that many public galleries would like to but lack the wherewithal, contacts and freedom of a private institution.

For lunch, book at club-like Green's Restaurant. The all-day smart brasserie, The Wolseley, remains as popular as ever; seafood at its best is on offer at Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill.

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

After lunch, take the bus from Piccadilly past Harvey Nichols and Harrods (best seen at night when its terracotta façade is lit by thousands of light bulbs) to South Kensington where Queen Victoria's husband, Prince Albert, inspired the building of some of London's great 19th-century museums. The Science and Natural History Museums are world-class, but our favorite is the idiosyncratic treasure house of the Victoria & Albert Museum where you can spend hours wandering its endless corridors and galleries looking at the pick of the world's fine and applied arts.

Take afternoon tea in The Orangery, a grand neo-classical building in the gardens of 17th-century Kensington Palace. First the monarch's home from 1689 to 1760, then divided into various apartments for minor and younger royals, the palace has become inextricably linked with the late Princess Diana who lived here from her wedding on July 29, 1981 until her death on August 31, 1997. The Palace has changing exhibitions, but Diana's dresses are on permanent show

In contrast, London's latest cutting-edge art space, the privately owned Saatchi Gallery puts on world-class and provocative exhibitions. You'll find it just by the fashionable shopping area of Duke of York's Square.

For dinner, return to Mayfair and its surroundings. French offerings are found at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon and and Hélène Darroze at the Connaught. French ched-owner Claude Bosi is cooking complex, imaginative dishes at Hibiscus and Wild Honey gets high praise for its well-priced dishes in a casual ambience.

Continue to Day 2