Los Angeles City Trip

by Roger Grody

Day 1	/	Where to Stay
Day 2	/	Where to Eat
Day 3	/	What to See & Do

Los Angeles is one of the most misunderstood cities in the world, and even after immersing oneself in it for 72 hours — or 72 years for that matter — it will remain an intriguing enigma that you'll want to continue exploring until you feel like you've figured it out. Although its lifestyle has been romanticized around the world, many Americans continue to regard L.A. as an overgrown suburb or superficial movie industry colony. Perhaps it is both of those, but the city is much, much more, too.

Smog, the source of endless punch lines on late night television, is hardly an issue anymore. While cities around the globe have gotten hazier, L.A. has cleaned up its image and now lets the sun shine in. Traffic, the other problem associated with the city, has not gotten better, but these days you have the choice of taking a gleaming subway beneath the traffic jams. And while the city may indeed be the poster child of urban sprawl, those in the know can point out that some of the world's greatest residential architecture is stitched into that fabric of development. That tradition, which began in the early twentieth century, attracted Frank Lloyd Wright and peaked with mid-century modernists like John Lautner, Rudolph Schindler and Richard Neutra. And when you drive along the Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu or through the Hollywood Hills, it's clear the tradition is continuing. Some of the world's best contemporary architects are based in L.A. and their soaring towers are on display not just at home but in places like Shanghai and Dubai.

All of this points to a creative community like none other. Not only does the much-maligned entertainment industry create memorable experiences for people around the globe, but that creative spirit extends into other industries as well. In the world of fashion, young L.A. designers are beginning to rival established names from Europe. And inspired by the city's architectural history is a vibrant community of home furnishing designers whose concepts fill the César Pelli-designed Pacific Design Center and sleek showrooms lining Beverly and La Cienega Boulevards.

The fine arts are showcased in magnificent structures, the equal of anyplace in America. For music, Walt Disney Concert Hall is the iconic home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, while The Getty Center boasts an endowment unmatched by any museum in the world. Once considered a cultural backwater by detractors in New York, the cultural resources of L.A. are formidable, supported by a population of more than fifteen million people and an economy that dwarfs all but the largest industrialized nations.

The iconic surf culture is still very much a part of L.A. life, but the city has become more multifaceted than when the Beach Boys were at the top of the charts. Performing arts venues are scattered from Pasadena to Malibu, and Hollywood continues to experience a remarkable renaissance. L.A. is also a great sports town, boasting multiple championships in the NBA and Major League Baseball, and most recently, the Los Angeles Kings of the National Hockey League. Even its major league soccer franchise, the Los Angeles Galaxy, has risen to the top, and after a long absence it appears the NFL may be headed back to L.A. within a few years.

While L.A. may not have as many formal French restaurants as New York, its creativity in the culinary arts is second to none. In L.A., celebrity chefs were air-kissing their famous customers long before the Food Network was even a cable executive's dream, and the dining scene gets more exciting every year as heavily tattooed twenty-something chefs continue to turn out imaginative molecular gastronomic creations in informal gastropubs. You can find the best sushi outside of Japan in L.A., and the constant influence of cultures imported from throughout Asia and Latin America provide incredible inspiration for local chefs.

In addition to being a Pacific Rim capital participating in the burgeoning Asian economies, L.A.'s location on the threshold of Latin America creates a metropolis with incredible diversity. And unlike some other big cities, where ethnic neighborhoods are relatively segregated, the borders of L.A.'s ethnic communities are delightfully blurred and the city's multiculturalism is celebrated. Those immigrant neighborhoods provide rich and colorful detours for Angelenos and visitors alike, and architects, artists, chefs, fashion designers and musicians all draw inspiration from L.A.'s remarkable diversity.

The only bad news is that 72 hours is simply not enough!

Because L.A. is painfully spread out, be sure to map out your trip carefully. When you arrive — whether it be at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) or one of the smaller (and highly recommended) regional airports such as Burbank's Bob Hope Airport or Long Beach Airport — it is absolutely essential to have a rental car waiting. L.A. has come a long way in terms of mass transit — there is now a burgeoning subway system and an extensive network of light rail commuter trains, as well as bus service — but you'll need a car to most efficiently explore the sprawling metropolis. Despite the horror stories you may have heard about L.A. traffic, it's no worse than Atlanta, Boston or New York. If, however, you're from a smaller community and unaccustomed to frenetic freeway traffic, you may want to consider alternative routes utilizing surface streets, and should definitely insist on a car with a GPS navigating system. And if you want to really get into the L.A. spirit, be sure to rent a convertible! Click here to get a feel of the Greater Los Angeles Area.

The pool at Montage Beverly Hills

In terms of lodging, there are so many desirable neighborhoods from which to choose, your personal tastes and budget will have to dictate. If you'd like to be near the ocean and don't mind paying premium rates, we recommend Shutters on the Beach or its Andalusian-inspired neighbor, the Casa del Mar. Both are right on the beach in Santa Monica and both pricy. Nearby and somewhat more moderately priced is the hip, eco-friendly Shore Hotel. If you opt for the Beverly Hills area, we suggest The Peninsula Beverly Hills — legendary for its impeccable, never-wavering standards — or the opulent Montage Beverly Hills. A perennial favorite among discriminating travelers is the posh Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel, which was featured in "Pretty Woman" and has been one of the city's premier destinations for decades. Its location just off Rodeo Drive is a plus, along with its in-house dining spots that include Wolfgang Puck's CUT. A bit removed from the action is the legendary Hotel Bel-Air, an idyllic getaway for the rich and famous, recently reopened after a comprehensive makeover. If you value trendiness over tradition, consider the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills, with a funky interior by Philippe Starck. Its restaurant, The Bazaar by José Andrés, has emerged as one of the most innovative and exciting in town. Adjacent to downtown Beverly Hills is the new Mr. C Hotel, a high-end boutique property courtesy of the Cipriani family, a legendary name in hospitality in Italy.

For more moderate budgets, consider downtown L.A., whose exciting renaissance continues to gain momentum. More staid types will enjoy the distinguished Millennium Biltmore Hotel, a masterfully restored landmark whose Club Level offers exceptional upgrades. For hipsters on a budget, there's the Figueroa Hotel, a charming Moroccan-styled boutique downtowner, or The Standard (its rooftop bar is a perennially hot scene). Its sister property, The Standard on the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood, is also a good value. Even ritzy Beverly Hills offers moderate prices in the lovely boutique hotel, Maison 140, the mid-century modern Avalon Hotel with its poolside Oliverio restaurant, and the all-suite Beverly Hills Plaza Hotel in nearby Westwood. Hollywood, which used to be ignored as a place to stay, has now come into its own, and recommendable hotels include the spectacular W Hollywood Hotel & Residences or equally hip but more intimate The Redbury, both located near the legendary intersection of Hollywood & Vine. For travelers, these make strategic choices, since the Metro Red Line train runs directly through the W. Not far, on the Sunset Strip, is the recently renovated ANdAZ West Hollywood hotel, once known as the "Riot House" for the behavior of legendary guests like the Rolling Stones and Led Zeppelin. Wherever you stay, get a good night's sleep and be ready for an early start the next day.

Also consider getting a CityPass to save up to 50% off the price of regular admissions to some of the city's finest attractions.

In neighboring Santa Monica, you can ride the Ferris wheel at Pacific Park, built on the Santa Monica Pier, or round out the afternoon wandering the Third Street Promenade, a pedestrian mall which has become a prime place to shop, take in a movie, snack — be careful, since you've got a big dinner planned — or just hang out. Some establishments of note include Arcana, a book store dedicated to the arts and Puzzle Zoo, a truly unique toy store. The Promenade is now integrated with the newly renovated Santa Monica Place shopping center that features an expansive plaza filled with public art. Shops include trendy boutiques like Kitson, Tory Burch and AllSaints Spitafields, as well as stalwarts Tiffany & Co. and Louis Vuitton. It's open air dining deck offers Latin-Asian Zengo from acclaimed chef Richard Sandoval. In addition, The Market at Santa Monica Place features a selection of gourmet food purveyors, from renowned fromageries to chocolatiers.

For dinner, you might as well catch a signature sunset at the beach. Nearby Santa Monica restaurants include high-end Mélisse where surfing chef-owner, Josiah Citrin's menu emphasizes traditional French cuisine with Cal-Italian twists. For a lively, more casual dining experience, head over to The Lobster at the foot of Santa Monica Pier, where you can find plump crab cakes, big-eye tuna and lobster in all forms while enjoying the ocean view. (We recommend sitting on the terrace — the views are better and it's less noisy). Tar & Roses, where chef Andrew Kirschner uses a wood-fired oven to turn rustic dishes into sophisticated creations, is another great option. For great value and authenticity, consider Pintxo for Spanish tapas and wines, or Blue Plate Oysterette, whose chowda and lobster rolls will make you feel like you're in New England instead of SoCal.