Since 1969, restaurant, hotel, travel & other witty reviews by a handpicked, worldwide team of discerning professionals—and your views, too.

Los Angeles Travel Guide

Weekend Getaway


Loving Los Angeles
Exploring the City of Angels
by Roger Grody


Los Angeles' sprawling metropolitan area is equivalent in size to several New England states
Los Angeles' sprawling metropolitan area is equivalent in size
to several New England states

The Southern California lifestyle has long been romanticized, but Los Angeles is regularly underrated, dismissed as an overgrown suburb or superficial movie industry colony rather than the world-class city it is. The presence of The Getty Center and Disney Concert Hall, formidable arts centers wrapped in extraordinary architecture, silences some critics, but L.A.'s detractors continue to misunderstand it.

Because the sprawling metropolitan area is equivalent in size to several New England states, L.A.'s attractions are not contained in a manageable, walkable area like Manhattan, San Francisco or Paris. As a result, the city can be daunting for visitors, particularly those with limited time. Spread out as they may be, the cultural resources of L.A. are not to be underestimated, and its 15 million-plus residents contribute to an economy that dwarfs all but the largest industrialized nations.

The iconic surf culture is still very much a part of L.A. life, but the city has become more multifaceted than when the Beach Boys were at the top of the charts. Performing arts venues and extraordinary museums are scattered from Pasadena to Malibu, and Hollywood continues to experience a remarkable renaissance. L.A. is also a great sports town, boasting multiple championships in the NBA and Major League Baseball. Even its major league soccer franchise, the Los Angeles Galaxy, has risen to the top, and after a long absence it appears the NFL may be headed back to L.A.

The entertainment industry is not the only reason L.A. is one of the most formidable centers of creativity in the world. The city has a rich history of world-class architecture, with the imprints of giants like Frank Lloyd Wright, John Lautner and Richard Neutra scattered amongst its neighborhoods. Some of the world's best contemporary architects are based in L.A. and their showpieces are on display not just at home but in places like Shanghai and Dubai. In the world of fashion, young L.A. designers are beginning to rival established names from Europe. And inspired by the city's architectural history is a vibrant community of home furnishing designers whose concepts fill the César Pelli-designed Pacific Design Center and sleek showrooms lining Beverly and La Cienega Boulevards.
Another reflection of L.A.'s creative side is the city's emergence as one of the hotbeds for a progressive American cuisine that draws on diverse international influences. Whether it's a classically trained French chef working his magic thousands of miles from home, a celebrity chef air-kissing famous patrons, or a heavily tattooed twenty-something turning out imaginative molecular gastronomic creations in an informal gastropub, L.A. offers innumerable experiences for dedicated foodies.

L.A.'s location is not only the source of an agreeable Mediterranean-like climate, but is very strategic. In addition to being a Pacific Rim capital participating in the burgeoning Asian economies, L.A.'s position on the threshold of Latin America adds further gravitas. The benefits of this location transcend economics, fueling a cultural diversity that penetrates every aspect of the local lifestyle. The city is blessed with colorful ethnic communities that interact more harmoniously than in most big cities, and L.A.'s immigrant neighborhoods provide rich and colorful detours for Angelenos and visitors alike. The city's mainstream architects, artists, chefs, fashion designers and musicians all draw inspiration from L.A.'s remarkable diversity.

The only bad news is that 72 hours is simply not enough!

Because L.A. is painfully spread out, be sure to map out your trip carefully. When you arrive — whether it be at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) or one of the smaller (and highly recommended) regional airports such as Burbank's Bob Hope Airport or Long Beach Airport — it is absolutely essential to have a rental car waiting. L.A. has come a long way in terms of mass transit — there is now a burgeoning subway system and an extensive network of light rail commuter trains, as well as bus service — but you'll need a car to most efficiently explore the sprawling metropolis. Despite the horror stories you may have heard about L.A. traffic, it's no worse than Atlanta, Boston or New York. If, however, you're from a smaller community and unaccustomed to frenetic freeway traffic, you may want to consider alternative routes utilizing surface streets, and should definitely insist on a car with a GPS navigating system. And if you want to really get into the L.A. spirit, be sure to rent a convertible! Click here to get a feel of the Greater Los Angeles Area.

The pool at Montage Beverly Hills
The pool at Montage Beverly Hills

In terms of lodging, there are so many desirable neighborhoods from which to choose, your personal tastes and budget will have to dictate. If you'd like to be near the ocean and don't mind paying premium rates, we recommend Shutters on the Beach or its Andalusian-inspired neighbor, the Hotel Casa del Mar Both are right on the beach in Santa Monica. If you opt for the Beverly Hills area, we suggest The Peninsula Beverly Hills — legendary for its impeccable, never-wavering standards — or the opulent Montage Beverly Hills. A perennial favorite among discriminating travelers is the posh Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel, which was featured in "Pretty Woman" and has been one of the city's premier destinations for decades. Its location just off Rodeo Drive is a plus, along with its in-house dining spots that include Wolfgang Puck's CUT. A bit removed from the action is the legendary Hotel Bel-Air, an idyllic getaway for the rich and famous, just reopened after a comprehensive makeover. If you value trendiness over tradition, consider the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills, with a funky interior by Philippe Starck. Its restaurant, The Bazaar by José Andrés, has emerged as one of the most innovative and exciting in town. Adjacent to downtown Beverly Hills is the new Mr. C Hotel, a high-end boutique property courtesy of the Cipriani family, a legendary name in hospitality in Italy.

If you value trendiness, consider the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills, with an interior by Philippe Starck. Its restaurant, The Bazaar by José Andrés, has emerged as one of the most innovative and exciting in town.

For more moderate budgets, consider downtown L.A., whose exciting renaissance continues to gain momentum. More staid types will enjoy the distinguished Millennium Biltmore Hotel, a masterfully restored landmark whose Club Level offers exceptional upgrades. For hipsters on a budget, there's the Figueroa Hotel, a charming Moroccan-styled boutique downtowner, or The Standard (its rooftop bar is a perennially hot scene). Its sister property, The Standard on the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood, is also a good value. Even ritzy Beverly Hills offers moderate prices in the lovely boutique hotel, Maison 140, the mid-century modern Avalon Hotel with its poolside Oliverio restaurant, and the all-suite Beverly Hills Plaza Hotel in nearby Westwood. Hollywood, which used to be ignored as a place to stay, has now come into its own, and recommendable hotels include the spectacular W Hollywood Hotel & Residences or equally hip but more intimate The Redbury, both located near the legendary intersection of Hollywood & Vine. For travelers, these make strategic choices, since the Metro Red Line train runs directly through the W. Not far, on the Sunset Strip, is the recently renovated ANdAZ West Hollywood hotel, once known as the "Riot House" for the behavior of legendary guests like the Rolling Stones and Led Zeppelin. Wherever you stay, get a good night's sleep and be ready for an early start the next day.

Also consider getting a CityPass to save up to 50% off the price of regular admissions to some of the city's finest attractions.


LOS ANGELES ITINERARY: DAY 1

Richard Meier-designed Getty Center
Getty Center

First stop is downtown Beverly Hills and its glamorous boutiques centered around famous Rodeo Drive. Two blocks to the east, on Beverly Drive, is Southern-slanted Jack n' Jill’s of Beverly Hills, a laid-back restaurant where you can grab a wonderful breakfast of chicken-fried steak, crêpes or eggs Benedict. This is also a great time to wander the streets past celebrated establishments like Versace, Prada and Cartier. At this hour, the boutiques are closed and at these prices, window shopping is much safer! Besides, time is of the essence, because you're off to drive the tree-shaded streets of Beverly Hills and Bel-Air, just to get a flavor of the movie star lifestyle.

After that quick tour, you'll be on your way to the spectacular Richard Meier-designed Getty Center, perched on a Brentwood hilltop overlooking the San Diego Freeway. Here, in addition to one of the most expansive and thoroughly eclectic collections of art in the world, you'll find some incredible views of the city. A word to the wise: be selective. The Getty's collection is so overwhelming — everything from French furniture and decorative arts to Impressionist masters to Roman antiquities — that attempting to conquer it all in a single visit is totally unrealistic. If you'd like to stay there for lunch, the museum offers both an informal café and the more elaborate The Restaurant at the Getty Center, a sleek venue featuring outstanding contemporary American cuisine with spectacular views in almost every direction (for future reference, note the museum stays open into the evening on Saturdays, and The Restaurant captures sensational sunsets).


The calm and idyllic canals of Venice make for a peaceful escape
The canals of Venice

In the alternative, you can grab lunch at your next destination, the iconic Venice Beach. Nobody should visit L.A. without checking out this unique stretch of sand, where artists and musicians line the boardwalk as bikini-clad babes skate by. Stop to watch and mingle with all the local characters and crazies — sand sculptors, over-the-top street performers, weightlifters on Muscle Beach — and enjoy a tequila-chicken sausage at the original Jody Maroni's Sausage Kingdom, a Venice institution located right on the boardwalk, or hang on the patio at Larry's, an indoor-outdoor gastropub that serves great food and pays homage to Venice's vibrant community of artists. Or for more sophisticated cuisine, head over to the stylish, Pacific Rim-inspired Chaya Venice, where you can score anything from sushi to lobster enchiladas to a rib-eye with peppercorn sauce; James Beach for solid American fare and a lively bar, or Joe's, a serious but unstuffy California-French restaurant that offers outstanding deals for lunch. For an intriguing selection of small plates and creative pizzas offered in a convivial setting that includes a pair of communal tables, head to Venice's popular, celeb-favored Gjelina.

In neighboring Santa Monica, you can ride the Ferris wheel at Pacific Park, built on the Santa Monica Pier, or round out the afternoon wandering the Third Street Promenade, a pedestrian mall which has become a prime place to shop, take in a movie, snack — be careful, since you've got a big dinner planned — or just hang out. Some establishments of note include Arcana, a book store dedicated to the arts and Puzzle Zoo, a truly unique toy store. The Promenade is now integrated with the newly renovated Santa Monica Place shopping center that features an expansive plaza filled with public art. Shops include trendy boutiques like Kitson, Tory Burch and AllSaints Spitafields, as well as stalwarts Tiffany & Co. and Louis Vuitton. It's open air dining deck offers Latin-Asian Zengo from acclaimed chef Richard Sandoval. In addition, The Market at Santa Monica Place features a selection of gourmet food purveyors, from renowned fromageries to chocolatiers.

For dinner, you might as well catch a signature sunset at the beach. Nearby Santa Monica restaurants include high-end Mélisse where surfing chef-owner, Josiah Citrin's menu emphasizes traditional French cuisine with Cal-Italian twists. For a lively, more casual dining experience, head over to The Lobster at the foot of Santa Monica Pier, where you can find plump crab cakes, big-eye tuna and lobster in all forms while enjoying the ocean view. (We recommend sitting on the terrace — the views are better and it's less noisy). For great value and authenticity, consider Pintxo for Spanish tapas and wines, or Blue Plate, whose chowda and lobster rolls will make you feel like you’re in New England instead of SoCal.

Santa Monica Pier
Santa Monica Pier

The previously mentioned spots in Venice are also fine options, but you might want to head north to check out the views from glamorous Malibu. There, you can eat at The Beachcomber at Malibu Pier, whose patio is perched right above the crashing waves, or — further north past Pepperdine University — at Geoffrey's, where the entire dining "room" is stationed on a garden-like terrace. Malibu also offers the incredible sushi (and other inventive, intricate Japanese dishes) of renowned chef Nobu Matsuhisa at his lain-back but very cool Nobu Malibu, which doesn't have dramatic views, but the contemporary Japanese cuisine is reward enough. New on the scene is Savory, where acclaimed chef Paul Shoemaker showcases locally sourced ingredients on a modern American menu. Keep these places in mind for a future trip to Malibu. Prime attractions there include the Getty Villa, J. Paul Getty's lavish mansion, which houses 48,000 square feet of museum space. Inspired by the first-century Villa dei Papiri near Mount Vesuvius, it is loaded with antiquities from Greece and Rome and offers some spectacular coastal views. For shopping, check out Malibu Lumber Yard, a chic transformation of an old building supply yard that now houses some of the trendiest retailers in L.A. Just south of Malibu is the pretty, celebrity-favored enclave of Pacific Palisades — more charming and less flashy than Malibu — where a quaint downtown area is home to interesting shops and restaurants. Maison Giraud, a casual café/bistro from prominent L.A. chef Alain Giraud, is a great spot to drop into any time of day.

Continue to Day 2

MORE LOS ANGELES INFORMATION



* Venice and Downtown images by AlphaMedia.
Top Santa Monica Palisades, LAX and Santa Monica Pier images by Robert Landau courtesy of LA INC., Los Angeles Convention & Visitor's Bureau.

P121906 (Updated: 02/16/12 NW)