The Monterey Peninsula is a region of diverse and overwhelming beauty. This part of California has it all—the craggy cliffs of Big Sur, the dramatic shores and white sandy beaches of Carmel, and the resplendent coastline of Pacific Grove. The Peninsula is also home to Pebble Beach, a resort area that houses some of the world’s finest golf courses. Carmel Valley’s sunny interior gives way to wineries, an arts and crafts culture and a laid-back spirit. Monterey’s Cannery Row toasts the Peninsula’s old fishing and canning history. The Peninsula—once home to writers and artists who (left homeless by the 1906 San Francisco earthquake) relocated to Carmel—is now a playground for weekenders, families, golfers and lovers. After 72 hours of exploration, you’ll understand why this place is so inspired—and inspiring.

The Monterey Peninsula lies on the Pacific coast on the southern side of the Monterey Bay, just off Highway 1 and south of Santa Cruz. It’s west of Salinas and 75 miles from San Jose, 115 miles from San Francisco and 335 miles north of Los Angeles.  From San Francisco and the north, take Highway 1 to Monterey; or, alternately, take Highway 101, turn west at Highway 156, and head south on Highway 1. From the south, take Highway 1 from Morro Bay and Hearst Castle or from Highway 101, exit in Salinas, and follow the signs to the Monterey Peninsula.

Monterey’s small and convenient airport serves a number of commercial carriers and private jets. It’s a convenient way to visit the Peninsula and lies just minutes from all lodgings and attractions. For information on flights, rental cars and other airport information, call 831-648-7000.

Summer is a season of cool and foggy days when a thick marine layer stubbornly refuses to leave the coast. The spring and fall are vibrant and clear, the Mediterranean climate often playing games with visitors who aren’t familiar with its eccentricities. Whatever time of year, do as the locals do and dress in layers. Your light sweater will make a welcome tether.

DAY 1

You’ll begin to understand Carmel’s rich Arts and Crafts and architectural heritage by turning from Highway 1 (Carmel’s Main Street) onto Ocean Avenue and then driving down Carmel Hill. Cypress and pine shroud the street, the white sand and glistening water of Carmel Beach studs the horizon. As you make your approach into the village “By-the-Sea,” you’ll get a distinct feel for Carmel’s cottage culture, some of the homes made famous by Hugh Comstock, “Carmel’s builder of dreams.” Today, many of Carmel’s “cute” cottage structures have been replaced with modern façades that replicate the original bungalow and Arts and Crafts styles. In addition to familiarizing yourself with the architectural motifs, get to know some of the quirky local ordinances still on the books.  Live music in pubs is banned, there are no street numbers, neon lights are a no-no and high heels—worn without a permit—are forbidden. Other basic trivia to memorize: Clint Eastwood is no longer mayor; his short two-year reign ended in 1988. He also long ago sold his interest in the western pub, the Hog’s Breath Inn—so it’s probably not the best place to go Clint watching, though a drink around the outside fireplace never gets old.

Make the La Playa Hotel, well-suited for an energetic family or those seeking solitude, your headquarters. The original mansion, designed in 1905 by artist Christopher Jorgensen, made a luxurious home for his society bride (a member of San Francisco’s Ghirardelli chocolate family). You can stay in one of the 75 rooms that surround the beautiful gardens and Art Deco lobby that bring the Mediterranean to California or you can take up residence in one of the five quaint, newly-renovated cottages that are built into this pastoral seaside artist community. The setting takes on a modern retrospective feel, with furnishings by Restoration Hardware. The cottage layouts, complete with garden patios and wood burning fireplaces are so comfortable you’ll feel as though you own your own place in Carmel.  You almost forget you’re officially staying in the hotel until there’s a welcome knock at your door and chocolates are left on your pillow during nightly turndown service.

La Playa’s location affords something for the whole family. The hotel is just steps to the ocean, so you and the kids can spend the day at the beach building sand castles or head uptown to Carmel’s 90 art studios and galleries. Just a few short blocks away is the center of town.  Just off the main drag Ocean Avenue—and next to tiny Piccadilly Park, sits Cantinetta Luca. This spirited dining addition is from talented restaurateur and Carmel newcomer, David Fink. Authentic Italian dishes are served in a big-city style atmosphere. Sit at the counter and watch Chef Jason Balestrieri prepare the house specialty, antipasti, or embrace your inner carnivore and order the razor-thin, air-cured beef bresaola.  Alternately, you might want to enjoy the in-house cured salumi and a glass of wine from the all-Italian wine list.

You’ll also find as many design shops, galleries and fine boutiques as there are restaurants. One store not to miss is Homescapes Carmel. This boutique home design store with a Japanese flair features both imported and local work. You’ll marvel at Carmel artist John Chappell’s unique “curiosities”; lamps and tables carved in stone, steel and cement. Dawson Cole Fine Art highlights the one-man show of master sculptor and figure artist, Richard MacDonald. At The Weston Gallery, the oldest and most respected gallery of its kind, you’ll discover fine photography by newer talents and legendary artists such as Edward Weston and Ansel Adams. Art openings and exhibits also play a constant role in this village. At the Carmel Art Association, Carmel’s oldest art gallery, founded in 1927, the work of more than 120 professional local artists is presented. Check their calendar and maybe you’ll catch an opening.

After your initial jaunt through town, stroll back to La Playa Hotel for an alfresco afternoon cocktail on the heated patio of Terrace Grill. Or, if the fog has played its hand, cozy up inside the wood-paneled lounge where vintage photos of old Carmel adorn the walls and make for a warm backdrop. Afterwards, take a five-minute drive outside Carmel’s official city limits. Your eyes might need a moment to adjust to the darkness (another one of Carmel’s laws: no street lamps) as you ramble through the storybook village to what locals call, “the mouth of the valley.” Here in the Crossroads Shopping Center you’ll find Rio Grill, a fixture on the Peninsula for 25 years. Chef Cy Yontz emboldens Southwestern cuisine through daring spicing and creative presentations. Start with the quesadilla of the day—perhaps barbecued beef or another festive filling—and then move on to something from the grill. Nothing on the menu is too hot and spicy.

Continue to Day 2