Monterey Peninsula, California 72-Hour Vacation

Where the expansive sky collides into the rocky promontory and the craggy cliffs spill into the sea, the Monterey Peninsula just north of the spectacular Big Sur coastline is a region of diverse and overwhelming beauty. Here, you’ll find Carmel with its white sandy beaches and rich cultural provenance, and its legacy of writers and artists who (left homeless by the 1906 San Francisco earthquake) relocated here,  as well as the quaint Victorian town of Pacific Grove hugging the rugged coastline at the tip of the headland.

Monterey’s Cannery Row, made famous by John Steinbeck’s novel of the same name, toasts the Peninsula’s fishing and canning history and is home to the region’s most famous tourist attraction: the Monterey Bay Aquarium. The Peninsula is also home to Pebble Beach, a resort area where you can unwind at one of many elegant resorts and restaurants after a game on some of the world’s finest golf courses. Further inland, Carmel Valley’s sunny interior gives way to wineries, an arts and crafts culture and a laid-back spirit. The Peninsula is  a playground for weekenders, families, golfers and lovers. After 72 hours of exploration, you’ll understand why this place is so inspired—and inspiring.

Monterey Bay Coastline

The Monterey Peninsula lies on the Pacific coast on the southern side of the Monterey Bay, just off Highway 1 and south of Santa Cruz. It’s west of Salinas and 75 miles from San Jose, 115 miles from San Francisco and 335 miles north of Los Angeles.  From San Francisco and the north, take Highway 1 to Monterey; or, alternately, take Highway 101, turn west at Highway 156, and head south on Highway 1. From the south, take Highway 1 from Morro Bay and Hearst Castle or from Highway 101, exit in Salinas, and follow the signs to the Monterey Peninsula.

Summer is a season of cool and foggy days when a thick marine layer stubbornly refuses to leave the coast. The spring and fall are vibrant and clear, the Mediterranean climate often playing games with visitors who aren’t familiar with its eccentricities. Whatever time of year, do as the locals do and dress in layers. Your light sweater will make a welcome tether.

DAY 1

You’ll start to get a glimpse of Carmel’s rich Arts and Crafts and architectural heritage by turning from Highway 1 (Carmel’s Main Street) onto Ocean Avenue and then driving down Carmel Hill. Cypress and pine shroud the street, the white sands and glistening waters of Carmel Beach blanket the horizon. As you make your approach into the village "By-the-Sea," you’ll get a distinct feel for Carmel’s cottage culture, some of the homes made famous by Hugh Comstock, "Carmel’s builder of dreams." Today, many of Carmel’s "cute" cottage structures have been replaced with modern façades that replicate the original bungalow and Arts and Crafts styles. In addition to familiarizing yourself with the architectural motifs, get to know some of the quirky local ordinances still on the books.  Live music in pubs is banned, there are no street numbers, neon lights are a no-no and high heels—worn without a permit—are forbidden. Other basic trivia to memorize: Clint Eastwood is no longer mayor; his short two-year reign ended in 1988. He also long ago sold his interest in the western pub, the Hog's Breath Inn—so it’s probably not the best place to go Clint watching, though a drink around the outside fireplace never gets old.

Make the La Playa Hotel, well-suited for an energetic family or those seeking solitude, your headquarters. The original mansion, designed in 1905 by artist Christopher Jorgensen, made a luxurious home for his society bride (a member of San Francisco’s Ghirardelli chocolate family). You can stay in one of the 75 rooms that surround the beautiful gardens and Art Deco lobby that bring the Mediterranean to California or you can take up residence in one of the five quaint cottages that are built into this pastoral seaside artist community. La Playa’s location affords something for the whole family. The hotel is just steps to the ocean, so you and the kids can spend the day at the beach building sand castles or head uptown to Carmel’s 90 art studios and galleries.

Just a few short blocks away is the center of town.  And just off the main drag Ocean Avenue—and next to tiny Piccadilly Park, sits Cantinetta Luca. This spirited dining destination is helmed by talented restaurateur David Fink, who also owns the highly acclaimed Aubergine at L'Auberge Carmel. Authentic Italian dishes are served in a big-city style atmosphere. Sit at the counter and watch chef Jason Balestrieri prepare the house specialty, antipasti, or embrace your inner carnivore and order the razor-thin, air-cured beef bresaola.  Alternately, you might want to enjoy the in-house cured salumi and a glass of wine from the all-Italian wine list.

After your initial jaunt through town, stroll back to La Playa Hotel for an alfresco afternoon cocktail on the heated patio of Terrace Grill. Or, if the fog has played its hand, cozy up inside the wood-paneled lounge where vintage photos of old Carmel adorn the walls and make for a warm backdrop. Afterwards, take a five-minute drive outside Carmel’s official city limits. Your eyes might need a moment to adjust to the darkness (another one of Carmel’s laws: no street lamps) as you ramble through the storybook village to what locals call, "the mouth of the valley." Here in the Crossroads Shopping Center you’ll find Rio Grill, a fixture on the Peninsula for 25 years. Chef Cy Yontz emboldens Southwestern cuisine through daring spicing and creative presentations. Start with the quesadilla of the day—perhaps barbecued beef or another festive filling—and then move on to something from the grill. Nothing on the menu is too hot and spicy.

Continue to Day 2