 Napa Valley, California
The late Robert Mondavi once said about wine and his approach to winemaking, "We want to raise the art of living well." The spirit of his words pervades the Napa Valley he left behind, embraced by new generations turning grapes into sought-after vintages. These days, a wine country getaway can be had in any one of the 50 United States, but Napa Valley is the paramount destination for a wine country odyssey. Standard-setting wines can be found in castles and caves, shacks and chateaus. Over 300 wineries abound in Napa, so branch beyond big boys like Mondavi and Beringer in favor of precocious alternates like Darioush, Quixote and Behrens & Hitchcock. They’re all along and around a conveniently compact 30-mile stretch of vine-covered valley floor and hillsides. And you’ll drink in more than wines: at each tasting room you’ll discover a minefield of stories about pioneers and passions, and the toil and craft associated with winemaking. Many tastings showcase architecture and art for browsing, while others let nature’s views speak for themselves as the backdrop to a picnic. "The art of living well" also encapsulates the total Napa Valley experience. In perfect harmony with the wines, and an almost equal draw, is the cuisine. Various culinary masters make Napa Valley their headquarters. While Thomas Keller may act as chancellor with his tough-to-secure-a-reservation French Laundry, many other top-tier chefs and restaurateurs stand prepared to tantalize: seek out Redd's Richard Reddington, Jeff Mosher at Julia’s Kitchen and Todd Humphries at Martini House. Echoing vineyard philosophy, they tend to pay attention to seasons and sources of ingredients, whether you’re having a five-course feast or a burger from a stand. It’s no wonder Julia Child and Robert Mondavi helped found a museum celebrating food and wine (COPIA) here. Napa Valley has actually become a lifestyle, a state of mind an adjective. It signifies sensual indulgence on every level. Spas fit right in. Calistoga, the Old West hamlet at the north end of the valley, boasts natural geothermal mineral waters for soaking—whether in mud at a rustic bath house or in the newest elite retreat. Down valley you’ll find a smattering of luxury resorts and spas built around pampering, from the glorious Auberge du Soleil to the more modest Milliken Creek Inn and Spa. DAY 1
If your typical rise-and-shine means skipping breakfast or grabbing an energy bar on the way out the door, forget about it in wine country. Morning fortification is a must. On your way in from the south on Highway 29, detour to the Boon Fly Café, a folksy barn that’s casually hip inside. Pause for sophisticated takes on huevos rancheros, griddle cakes and corned beef hash, or grab a dozen warm house made mini donuts to go. From there, cross over to the less traversed Silverado Trail that parallels the 29; it’s chock-full of its own wine-tasting opportunities. Begin at striking Darioush Winery with its towering, free-standing columns topped by two-headed bulls, imported and carved Travertine stone façade, amphitheatre and fountains. Owner Darioush Khaledi grew up in Shiraz, Iran, a wine-growing oasis for over 7,000 years, until the prohibitions of the Islamic Revolution of the 1970s. He left for L.A. and built an independent grocery empire, which eventually enabled him to fulfill a long-held dream of producing wines. Taste his complex and rich cabernet, chardonnay and Shiraz in royal surrounds. Continue north, aiming now for a Mediterranean experience. Round Pond in Rutherford has been producing artisan olive oils from its family-owned estate for two generations. Everything is hand-harvested, blended and bottled, though the stone mill is state-of-the-art. Plan a tour that culminates in a tasting of their Italian and Spanish varietals including organic blood orange and Meyer lemon; then re-try with food pairings. Or, book an intimate lunch featuring gourmet cheeses, charcuterie, bread, seasonal produce from the gardens and the highlight: an olive oil dessert cake. Round Pond recently launched a winery with sweeping 360 degree views; tasting their estate cabernet and nebbiolo can be integrated into your visit.
Other casual lunch options include Oakville Grocery, circa 1881. It’s usually elbow room only as would-be picnickers peruse the fantastic cheese and deli cases and nibble tooth picked bites of this and that. The aged cheddar and oven-roasted pressed Panini satisfies your deepest yearnings. A bit farther up the road, the Dean & Deluca gourmet marketplace serves a similar purpose. Or consider retro Taylor’s Automatic Refresher in St. Helena for a burger and shake; no greasy spoon, this popular walk-up puts a Napa spin on fast food, whether a classic bacon cheeseburger or a seared rare ahi burger with wasabi mayo. There’s room for at least one more winery before check-in time. Keep heading north on Highway 29 and look for Castello di Amorosa’s driveway. As you pull in, you might need to blink—as a 121,000 square foot medieval-style castle materializes. This is no cheesy Vegas rendition—it’s a fourteen-year meticulous labor of love by winemaker Daryl Sattui who dreamed of Shangri-La. His version has a moat, drawbridge, dungeons, torture chamber, gargoyles, a labyrinth of passageways, frescoes, turrets and an underground wine cellar. The tour ends with a tasting, naturally. It’s time to take the quick cross back to Silverado Trail to unpack and unwind. Auberge du Soleil is the superlative resort choice in the valley – and one of the most sublime sleeps anywhere in the world. It’s a destination in itself. Terraced cottages dot the property, an olive grove tucked into a hillside of oaks and pines. Mature oleanders, pampas grass, palms, sage and countless other flowers and trees blend naturally into the terrain, which also includes trails meandering past sculpture gardens and vineyards. Accommodations feature custom-dyed bedcovers, plush lounges, bold modern canvases, wide French oak-planked floors, plasma TVs, a thoughtfully stocked Subzero fridge (all goodies complimentary), fireplace and French doors that open up to a secluded deck and the sound of quail calls. Put out the “resting” plaque until dinnertime.
Alternatively, the pool, with sundeck and valley panorama, may beckon. Consider a cocktail there by the lotus fountain, as milk white drapes billow over your woven sofa padded in colors of saffron, yams and dragon fruit. Or indulge in a spa treatment. The Auberge spa offers themed treatments (with essences from vineyard grapes, garden herbs and flowers, grove olives or valley mud and minerals). A rhythmic water massage may be just what you need to find your inner calm. There are lovely, less extravagant lodging choices throughout the valley, still within reach of the vines (Blackbird Inn, Milliken Creek Inn and Spa or Napa River Inn in the town of Napa; Lavender, Oleander House or Vintage Inn in Yountville; Harvest Inn in St. Helena; Chateau de Vie B&B & Vineyards in Calistoga). And even without an ooh-la-la spa-resort stay, you can still book decadent treatments at Health Spa Napa Valley in St. Helena. Once rejuvenated, cap your day with dinner at Redd in Yountville. The restaurant’s streamlined and sleek modernist décor echoes the pristine flavors and ingredients of the inventive, urbane cuisine. Or get a taste of über-chef Thomas Keller’s food at Ad Hoc, where he offers a single, casual three-course prix-fixe meal du jour.
* Fall vineyard image from www.uncork29.com. Darioush Winery photo from www.darioush.com. Oakville Grocery photo from www.oakvillegrocery.com. Auberge du Soleil photo from aubergedusoleil.com. (Updated: 08/07/08 SG) |
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