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Napa Valley, California 72-Hour Vacation

Napa Uncapped
Drinking in America's Premier Wine Country


Ballooning in Napa Valley

DAY 3

Prepare your wake-up call to depart as early as 5:30 a.m., depending on the time of year. Yes, it's worth it. Balloons above the Valley or Napa Valley Balloons will pick you up at your inn, and then transport you to the heavens. The drama unfolds as your balloon inflates in the still winds of the pre-dawn hour. At sunrise, you'll drift gracefully above the treetops and vineyards as your pilot narrates the one-hour journey. Afterwards, you'll be whisked away for a commemorative sparkling wine brunch.

Napa abloom in Spring
Napa abloom in Spring

You'll likely want to freshen up in your room before checking out for your last day of exploring. Then, ponder a winery that embraces rule-breaking, off-kilter design. Quixote Winery, founded by Carl Doumani of Stag's Leap Winery, was spawned from the whimsical imagination of Viennese artist-architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. The surreal buildings shun any straight lines, burst with Technicolor touches and sprout vegetation and gold onion turrets on the rooftops. The serious cabernet and petite syrah remind you that you're not in a cartoon dream.

The beautiful Napa weather begs for an outdoor lunch. Brix fits the bill, with casual but polished California cuisine on a lovely, expansive patio that simultaneously overlooks gardens, vineyards and hills. Linger alfresco in the afternoon at the Di Rosa Preserve in the Carneros region to the south. Within its 200-plus acres, migratory birds share the meadows, lake and woodlands with over 2,000 mixed-media art pieces from Northern California artists. There's a gallery for drop-in visitors, or plan a guided tour of various lengths and scope to meander the grounds.

Resolve to make a last-chance wine tasting stop in Napa. The Vintner's Collective, housed in a former saloon and brothel, offers pours from over a dozen noteworthy but esoteric labels such as Vinoce, Melka, Mi Sueño and D Cubed. One-stop shopping at its best.

Whereas tourists eager to journey into the heart of the vineyards once breezed by the town of Napa, it's come into its own as a dining destination. Continue the sampling theme at Zuzu for zippy tapas.

Vegetable enlightenment at Ubuntu: You may never miss meat or tofu again
Vegetable enlightenment at Ubuntu: You may never miss meat or tofu again

Be sure to tour Oxbow Public Market, yet another enticement to linger in Napa. Forces behind San Francisco's Ferry Building Marketplace created a similar foodie's paradise in Wine Country, and it has turned out to be a natural fit. A daily farmers market with rotating purveyors welcomes visitors outside. And within the 40,000 square foot barn-like structure, more than a couple dozen upscale shops showcase local artisan goods to stock your pantry and enrich your table. Browse and be seduced by fish, cheese and spice merchants, an outpost of Model Bakery, charcuterie from Fatted Calf, two wine sampling bars, a branch of Sonoma's Olive Press, Three Twins Organic Ice Cream. Dine on the deck overlooking the Napa River, perhaps choosing an all-American burger at Gott's Roadside Tray Gourmet, Venezualan arepas at Pica-Pica Maize Kitchen, or Hog Island Oyster Stand and Grill for bivalves plucked and shucked from a nearby bay.

Continue to embrace the purity of the farmers market by having dinner at acclaimed Ubuntu in Napa's town center. It's a "vegetable inspired restaurant," reinventing and elevating meatless cuisine. The contemporary space, which also houses an upstairs yoga studio, shuns stereotypical brown rice and tofu, creating stunning, complex dishes like farro with poached egg, wild ramp broth and morels or strawberry soffrito and burrata cheese pizza. Wine pairings are happily encouraged.

Eco-conscious Bardessono
Eco-conscious Bardessono

Ubuntu's world-class sensibilities and the Oxbow Market embody the forward-looking renaissance spirit that is as pervasive as ever in the valley. More proof lies in the optimistic, on-going surge of construction projects to allure travelers.

The Westin Verasa boasts an impressive, revamped home for luminary chef Ken Frank's La Toque. Acclaimed Chef Michael Chiarello's Bottega serves regional Italian cuisine committed to local purveyors and house-spun ingredients including pasta, olives, cheese and cured meats. Hovering on the horizon is a 300-plus room Ritz-Carlton, and Frank Gehry broke ground at Hall Winery in St. Helena, embarking on his vision to construct a futuristic basket-weave wave atop a state-of-the-art facility and tasting room. And who knows what the next winery wonder will be, or the next cult label? Perhaps there's no better time than now to start investigating.

TIPS:

It's tempting to tackle an ambitious list of "must do" wineries. But we recommend focusing on three or four per day to maximize your appreciation and keep a keen palate. Note that the days of complimentary tastings in Napa are practically over. Generally fees range from $5 on the low side to $15, $25, $40 and even higher, depending on the winery and depth of the tasting experience (i.e., tour and bottlings involved). Do ask your hotel's concierge for passes and even to arrange tastings for you, as sometimes fees might be waived. While many wineries are open to the public, generally between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m., others require pre-set appointments. If unsure, call ahead while planning your visit to ensure a time slot.

Fall in the Vineyards
Fall in the Vineyards

Consider hiring a chauffeur from Royal Coach Limousine to transport you between wineries. Not only will this foster more carefree wine tasting, but you won’t mind being stuck in traffic along the thin Highway 29 main artery should you visit during the peak months (May through the final stages of grape crushing in October).

It's also wise to book restaurants prior to your stay during primetime unless you don't mind late-night noshing. Weekend reservations may be especially difficult to secure without advance planning. However, don't rule out wine country in the off-season. During summer months and grape harvest time, tasting rooms can be packed and rowdy. Trade that in for quiet, more personalized experiences at wineries, lower priced lodging and easier restaurant reservations from November through April. Late fall turns the vines to stunning reds and golds, winter brings the cozy romance of fog and green grassy hills set against the browns of the dormant vineyards and early spring's bright yellow mustard dazzles.


MORE NAPA VALLEY INFORMATION

Grape Vines

* Hot air balloon and Spring Blossoms images courtesy of California Travel & Tourism Commission/Robert Holmes. Fall vineyard photo from www.inetours.com.

(Updated: 12/27/11 CT)