New Orleans, Louisiana

Full Circle in the Crescent City
New Orleans' Allure Shines On

By Ian McNulty


Mardi Gras on Bourbon Street
Mardi Gras on Bourbon Street

New Orleans has no beaches, no mountains and precious few scenic vistas, but what the city has in abundance is its own unique culture. This vibrancy gets to the heart of the Crescent City's mystique, its magnetism for visitors and the allure that keeps locals anchored to home.

The city's culture springs from a mix of disparate influences and shows up as complimentary doses of Southern charm, Caribbean flair, Old World elegance, and the excitement of the world-class events and celebrations that pack the New Orleans calendar. Redolent with the aromas of its singular cuisine, ringing with indigenous jazz and blues music and pulsing with secrets, New Orleans is a decadent, proud, debonair city that moves at its own pace and to its own rhythm. It will get into your blood and infect you with its joie de vivre.

New Orleans showcases a complete culture, with its own music, language and cuisine. Though most famous as the birthplace of jazz and a hotbed for blues music, New Orleans also has some of America's oldest opera history, with performances dating back to 1796. Architecture is another unique cultural treasure, with more than 40,000 structures listed as National Register buildings.

The often-heard term lagniappe, meaning a little gift, is common parlance in New Orleans and along the Gulf Coast. Its etymology symbolizes the city's culture and history, as the term derives from Peruvian Quechua, arrives at this bustling port city through New World Spanish, and is converted into a French term, one that you'll not find in any French dictionary. That's New Orleans: continually inventing, absorbing and claiming as its own the many cultures and influences that have arrived in the region since the 17th century.

French Quarter
French Quarter

Founded as a commanding location along the Mississippi River, New Orleans remains a busy port city today. Its docks transmit into the American heartland along the Mississippi River many of the goods that Americans have come to rely on in their daily lives. These include everything from Latin American coffee to steel, which accounts for as much as 70 percent of the city's cargo. But enough about business, this trip is for having fun. So let's get started! Peel away a few of the magical layers and discover a city busily recovering from its brush with a deadly hurricane, eager to showcase its indomitable spirit and determined to make its way into the future with grace and purpose.

First, you need a place to stay, and the choice is difficult since top-notch options are endless. The beau monde loves The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans with its elegant French Quarter–style courtyard, rooftop penthouse and panoramic views of the Crescent City. Few hotels can compete with such specialized guest services as the Ritz-Carlton's "oyster butler" or "crawfish concierge," who help guests access these distinctive New Orleans delights.

Then there's the W New Orleans French Quarter, with cozy and boutique-like rooms and an overall hip, ultra-luxe vibe. The pomp and splendor of the old French Quarter is dramatically showcased at the Hotel Monteleone, also well positioned for exploring the Quarter. For more understated elegance, consider the Soniat House. Located on a quiet, residential street in the French Quarter, this gorgeous, small hotel was originally built in 1829 by prosperous plantation owner Joseph Soniat Dufossat as a town house for his family and a hint of romance and Creole history endures today. Enjoy fresh-squeezed orange juice and homemade biscuits in its lush tropical courtyard.

Meanwhile, Lafitte Guest House will leave a smaller dent in your wallet but presents the temptation to spend your extra dollars on nearby Stella!'s exquisite cuisine. For the full Lafitte Guest House experience, be sure to get a room with a Victorian, draped, half-tester bed (which has its canopy over just the head half of the bed) and a fireplace, or one with a balcony overlooking Bourbon Street and French Quarter rooftops.

DAY 1

Lafayette Cemetery No. 1
Lafayette Cemetery No. 1
Relax in your hotel this morning and enjoy a leisurely breakfast, because morning is the perfect time to explore the historic Vieux Carré, the French Quarter, which you'll become best acquainted with through a walking tour. Although the French who founded New Orleans in 1718 get much of the historical credit for the city, most of the architecture of the French Quarter dates from the 40-year period of Spanish rule (1763-1803). To spare your feet and enjoy the tour in style, hire a mule-drawn carriage at Jackson Square and have the coach driver explain the city and its unique history to you.

A visit to the Herman-Grimma Historic House and its companion, Gallier House, will provide a good understanding of how the prosperous Creole upper class lived, as well as the daily routine of their slaves. Then there's Faulkner House, where the great writer and Nobel Laureate lived in 1925 while writing his first novel, Soldiers' Pay. At Faulkner House bookstore, a treasure trove for collectors, you will find some rare tomes and first editions. To see the actual house (for groups only), arrangements must be made in advance by calling 504-524-2940.

New Orleans—with its glowing literary history—has a plethora of bookstores. Our favorite is the Garden District Book Shop, where signed copies and publishers' promotional materials attest to the many author events held under its roof. The store is half a block from Commander's Palace restaurant and across the corner from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, the historic graveyard featured in novels by Garden District Book Shop regular and horror novelist Anne Rice.

Surely lunch must beckon after all that morning activity. For a relatively light bite, dig into po' boys at Johnny's Po-Boys restaurant. The place is iconic, and the sandwiches are top of the heap. Or pop over to Central Grocery across from the French Market, and line-up for a muffuletta, another legendary New Orleans sandwich made with layers of Italian meats, cheeses and the de rigueur olive salad. This is a meal for two hands, and a half sandwich will sate most appetites.

Mayfair House in the Garden District
Mayfair House in the Garden District

To walk off a bit of the indulgence, stroll down St. Charles Avenue and admire its elegant houses, magnolias and old, proud oak trees draped in Spanish moss. See if you can spot the remnants of Mardi Gras beads tangled in the low-hanging branches from parades past. Continue to Washington Avenue where you'll find the Victorian mansions of the Garden District. Farther uptown at Audubon Park, quiet paths and the Audubon Zoo await.

A top recommendation for dinner is Restaurant August, chef John Besh's elegant and acclaimed establishment in the Central Business District. Ethereal chestnut agnolotti with sage brown butter make an excellent first course before such entrées as Louisiana redfish with cauliflower, crabmeat and caviar or pheasant cooked two ways over fennel choucroute. To sample Besh's craft in-depth, order the five-course tasting menu and enjoy a parade of the chef's best offerings of the night.

The city comes alive after sundown with smoky jazz and pleasure-seekers. A stroll through the touristy but genuinely rollicking Bourbon Street scene is a necessity for any visitor. Get a drink at the ancient-looking Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop or check out such jazz joints as Palm Court Jazz Café. Among other bars we recommend: The Polo Club Lounge inside the Windsor Court Hotel and Old Absinthe House.

Continue to Day 2


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The birthplace of jazz

* Images courtesy of New Orleans Online

PAK121407
(Updated: 10/02/08 SG)


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