Olympic Peninsula, Washington

Get Ready for the Olympic This Is Our Kind of Event By Pat Tanumihardja

Day 1 / Where to Stay Day 2 / Where to Eat Day 3 / What to See & Do

Snow-capped mountains

The state of Washington's Olympic Peninsula, that is. In the vast arena of the Olympic Peninsula filling the western side of the state, nature's show has dazzled spectators for centuries. Since Theodore Roosevelt declared the area a national park in 1909, the peninsula has been safe from chainsaws and developers. Protected and pristine, its natural wonders enchant today's visitors and promise to enthrall generations to come.

Named for its mighty, snow-capped mountains rising skyward, the Olympic Peninsula is blanketed with deep forests of dark green conifers. Fir trees as far as the eye can see climb mountainsides and fill valleys. Blessed with copious rainfall and a beneficent climate, trees here grow to rainforest dimensions. From the ocean upwards or from the summit down, around each turn of the highway or each bend in a forest trail, grandiose scenes and oversize enchantments awe and amaze. Caressed by soft light filtering down through the deep forest umbrella, or by glittering sunlight glinting on the blue and tranquil waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, nature unfurls her dynamic beauty.

While the area's lush vegetation is a clue to its rainy personality, winters here are mild and summers generally pleasant making the peninsula visit-worthy in all seasons, provided you pack a raincoat or keep an umbrella handy. In fact, some areas receive less rain than one would expect, since they are sheltered from storms by the mountains which capture the clouds. The charming seaside hamlet of Port Townsend, for example, receives only half of the showers poured on Seattle.

Along with its natural majesty, there's another side to the Olympic Peninsula. Any visit here comes with an invitation to relax on an equally Olympian scale. Leave your worries behind, and breathe deep. Fill your lungs with the region's pristine air and fill your mind with optimism.

DAY 1

The Olympic Peninsula can be reached by land via US Interstate 5 through Olympia, the state capital, and then by heading west on US Highway 101 or State Route 112. We prefer the maritime approach by ferry. Besides, it's fun and relatively inexpensive. Board one of these serene vessels with their double car decks on the mainland, drive aboard, then take a stroll on the deck, where you'll feel like you're on a mini-cruise. Two Washington state ferry routes are available: one departs from downtown Seattle to Bainbridge Island; the second leaves from Edmonds, eighteen miles north of Seattle, to Kingston on the Kitsap peninsula. Both ferry routes have frequent departures, generally every hour, but check for specific schedules at www.wsdot.wa.gov.

Camp Cushman

From Kingston, take State Route 104 north to Port Gamble. Once a company timber town, it's now designated a National Historic District with an historical museum open to the public. Continue north to the Hood Canal, which separates the Kitsap Peninsula from the Olympic Peninsula. The so-called Hood Canal is not a manmade canal. It's actually a fjord Mother Nature dug at the end of the Ice Age when the glaciers retreated from Puget Sound.

After crossing the Hood Canal Bridge, take the scenic US Highway 101 south along Hood Canal all the way to Hoodsport. Be sure to stop at a turnout if the tide is low and watch the "pebbles" on the shore; they're likely to be oysters. Clams and mussels can also be found in abundance, with many beds along Hood Canal "farmed" by commercial or native Indian operations. Seafood in this part of the state doesn't get any fresher than that served in restaurants in Quilcene or Brinnon. It comes straight from the water outside their front doors. Try the Olympic Timber Restaurant and Lounge in Quilcene or the Geoduck Tavern in Brinnon.

Beaches in the area also offer some of the best diving on the peninsula. If you have time, head to Camp Cushman and Recreation Park from Hoodsport. An alternative excursion involves ascending Mount Walker on a mud road. The reward is a gorgeous view looking east to Seattle and the Cascade Mountains. For more spectacular scenery, Dosewallips State Park offers several breath-taking views of Hood Canal and the Olympic Mountains. There are freshwater and saltwater activities in the park, and in autumn, mushroom foraging can be enjoyed by visitors.

Resort at Port Ludlow

Heading north again on US Highway 101, your destination is Port Ludlow and the Resort at Port Ludlow, a quiet recreational and retirement community popular with boaters and golfers, thanks to a 27-hole golf course. Stay at the Inn at Port Ludlow and enjoy the mountains or water views. In the evening, dine on Dungeness crab cakes, cold-water prawns, and pan-roasted salmon at the Fireside Restaurant. Enjoy the total tranquility of your comfortable room with windows opening onto seaside breezes.

Continue to Day 2

* Mountain image by www.nps.gov/olym

(Updated: 06/03/08 HC)