Olympic Peninsula, Washington

Nature Beckons A lush, serene world awaits you on the Olympic Peninsula By Pat Tanumihardja

Day 1 / Where to Stay Day 2 / Where to Eat Day 3 / What to See & Do

Snow-capped mountains

Discovery awaits you in this vacation playground that offers miles of pristine, jagged shorelines, alpine meadows crowned with glaciers, and rainforest valleys. Whether you seek a fishing voyage, a day hike up the forested slopes of a mountain, a kayaking adventure, or a relaxing dip in sulfurous springs, there's something for everyone on the Olympic Peninsula. Far from the hustle and bustle of the daily grind, it's the perfect getaway for city folk.

Named for its mighty, snow-capped mountains rising skyward, the Olympic Peninsula is blanketed with deep forests of dark green conifers. Fir trees as far as the eye can see climb mountainsides and fill valleys. Blessed with copious rainfall and a beneficent climate, trees here grow to rainforest dimensions. From the ocean upwards or from the summit down, around each turn of the highway or each bend in a forest trail, grandiose scenes and oversize enchantments awe and amaze. Caressed by soft light filtering down through the deep forest umbrella, or by glittering sunlight glinting on the blue and tranquil waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, nature unfurls her dynamic beauty.

While the area's lush vegetation is a clue to its rainy personality, winters here are mild and summers generally pleasant making the peninsula visit-worthy in all seasons, provided you pack a raincoat or keep an umbrella handy. In fact, some areas receive less rain than one would expect, since they are sheltered from storms by the mountains which capture the clouds. The charming seaside hamlet of Port Townsend, for example, receives only half of the showers poured on Seattle.

There's no better time than now to pack your bags and head out to the Olympic Peninsula.

DAY 1

There are two ways to reach the Olympic Peninsula: by land via US Interstate 5 through Olympia, the state capital, and then by heading west on US Highway 101 or State Route 112. We prefer the maritime approach by ferry. Besides, it's fun and relatively inexpensive. Board one of these serene vessels with their double car decks on the mainland, drive aboard, then take a stroll on the deck, where you'll feel like you're on a mini-cruise. Two Washington state ferry routes are available: one departs from downtown Seattle to Bainbridge Island; the second leaves from Edmonds, eighteen miles north of Seattle, to Kingston on the Kitsap peninsula. Both ferry routes have frequent departures, generally every hour, but check for specific schedules at www.wsdot.wa.gov.

Camp Cushman

From Kingston, take State Route 104 north to Port Gamble. Once a company timber town, it's now designated a National Historic District with an historical museum open to the public. Continue north to the Hood Canal, which separates the Kitsap Peninsula from the Olympic Peninsula. The so-called Hood Canal is not a manmade canal. It's actually a fjord Mother Nature dug at the end of the Ice Age when the glaciers retreated from Puget Sound.

After crossing the Hood Canal Bridge, take the scenic US Highway 101 south along Hood Canal all the way to Hoodsport. Be sure to stop at a turnout if the tide is low and watch the "pebbles" on the shore; they're likely to be oysters. Clams and mussels can also be found in abundance, with many beds along Hood Canal "farmed" by commercial or native Indian operations. Seafood in this part of the state doesn't get any fresher than that served in restaurants in Quilcene or Brinnon, known as Emerald Towns of the Olympic National Forest, for obvious reasons. In addition, the area has one of the richest marine environments in the world, supporting an intricate web of living creatures: over 200 kinds of fish, fourteen species of marine mammals, 31 species of waterfowl, 57 species of birds, hundreds of types of shellfish, anemones, sea stars, worms and other invertebrates, diverse communities of algae and eelgrass live here.

All the seafood is freshly harvested straight from the water outside their front doors. Try the Olympic Timber Restaurant and Lounge in Quilcene or the Geoduck Tavern in Brinnon. Both serve excellent local seafood and specialties but the Geoduck Tavern has become somewhat infamous for its Hamburger Dip, a cross between a hamburger and a French dip sandwich.

Beaches in the area also offer some of the best diving on the peninsula. If you have time, head to Camp Cushman and Recreation Park from Hoodsport. An alternative excursion involves ascending Mount Walker on a mud road. The reward is a gorgeous view looking east to Seattle and the Cascade Mountains. For more spectacular scenery, Dosewallips State Park offers several breath-taking views of Hood Canal and the Olympic Mountains. There are freshwater and saltwater activities in the park, and in autumn, visitors can enjoy mushroom foraging.

Resort at Port Ludlow

Head north again on US Highway 101 as you cross the Hood Canal Floating Bridge to Port Ludlow and the Resort at Port Ludlow, a quiet recreational and retirement community popular with boaters and golfers, thanks to a 27-hole golf course. This residential and recreational community built up around the shores of Ludlow Bay offers myriad outdoor activities. Hike on wooded trails and paths, dig for clams and oysters along the beach, drive through scenic countryside, and cycle along scenic paths. Water sports enthusiasts can enjoy sailing, power boating, fishing, windsurfing and kayaking at the marina. Stay at the Inn at Port Ludlow and enjoy the mountains or water views. In the evening, dine on Dungeness crab cakes, cold-water prawns, and pan-roasted salmon at the Fireside Restaurant. Enjoy the total tranquility of your comfortable room with windows opening onto seaside breezes.

Continue to Day 2

* Mountain image by www.nps.gov/olym

(Updated: 07/30/08 SG)