A dazzling new glass dome for the glorious Grand Palais, ingeniously remodeled galleries at the Decorative Arts Museum, the long-awaited reopening of the Impressionist-filled Orangerie and construction of the sensational new primitive arts museum at Quai Branly. By investing in a large-scale cultural renovation, Paris has declared itself a resolutely modern and forward-thinking city without compromsing its most coveted commodity-romance. The capital of France is busy putting on a fresh face while continuing to dominate the nation's government and politics, business and industry, media and communications, and artistic and intellectual life. Irresistibly stylish, cosmopolitan and vibrant, it is also the ultimate walking city. We don't recommend gearing up for a monument marathon, as Paris itself is the attraction—it should be savored slowly and sensuously, as even the ordinary features of daily life are alluring: strolling through a park, shopping for bread, and relaxing in a café while people watching. In order to be truly dazzled by The City of Light in only 72 hours, pack walking shoes and your appetite, and the rest will fall into place.
The city's regal beauty extends to its hotels, where visitors have scores of options—among them the Four Seasons Hotel George V, the Hôtel Plaza Athénée, The Meurice and the Ritz Paris, all providing outstanding, top-of-the line luxury. More affordable extravagance can be found at The Hotel Opera Victoires, a stylish boutique hotel in a hip neighborhood at the heart of the city. For personalized service in a luxurious guesthouse setting, choose Hotel Sezz in the pristine 16th arrondissement. Cozy-chic style in a hidden haven not far from the Arc de Triomphe, the Hotel Pershing Hall is an exclusive choice for understated luxury. Another great option is the ultra design-conscious Hotel Murano, the self-proclaimed "urban resort" of Paris, complete with a modern restaurant, hip bar and a full-service spa. More reasonably priced lodgings can be found at the Art Deco-styled Hotel Lennox or the sweetly small Hotel Saint Thomas d'Aquin, both in the fashionable, literary neighborhood of Saint-Germain des Près. Lastly, just steps from the glorious Luxembourg Gardens, the blissfully quiet Hotel des Jardins de Luxembourg offers budget-conscious comfort.
Day
1
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Notre Dame viewed
from the Seine |
Parisians aren't big on breakfast. Step up to any zinc-topped bar in the city and grab a quick café crème and a croissant. A more opulent option is the high-end continental breakfast served at any one of the stately Ladurée bakery/restaurants in Paris. Less onerous is the wildly successful chain of bakeries and restaurants, Paul, whose generous continental breakfasts are surprisingly inexpensive. Or treat yourself to the sinful hot chocolate at the famed Café de Flore, situated on the Left Bank in Saint-Germain, where artists, writers and political figures have convened since 1887. Then enjoy a short walk to the medieval Ile de la Cité, where you can admire the gleaming, restored stone façade of Notre Dame de Paris. Climb the tower before the crowds set in and witness the city awakening under the blushing golden sky of a Parisian morning.
A great way to get to know Paris is via a one-hour river cruise on the Seine. Instead of the omnipresent Bateaux Mouches, opt for a less imposing vessel at the Vedettes du Pont Neuf, located off the Square du Vert Galant. If you have some time before your ship sets sail, stroll to the tip of the island to relax under the weeping willows that sweep the surface of the Seine. Your cruise will glide you leisurely around the Ile de la Cité and the idyllic Ile Saint Louis before it makes its way past the Eiffel Tower.
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Place
de la Bastille |
Make time for a visit to the Ile Saint Louis, preferably early, before the crowds invade the islet’s narrow thoroughfare in search of the inimitable ice cream parlor, Berthillon. Since the mid-1950s, Maison Berthillon has been preparing its ice creams and sorbets in a small laboratory behind the boutique and tea room. You may want to have lunch on the terrace of Brasserie de l’Ile Saint Louis at 55, quai de Bourbon. For an aerial view of Notre Dame, reserve at one of Paris’ temples of haute cuisine, La Tour d’Argent. Dating back five centuries, this legendary restaurant upholds a lengthy heritage of masterfully prepared French cuisine. And while recently recruited chef Stéphane Haissant keeps the menu fresh, he preserves famous signature specialties like the mythic pressed duck.
After a visit to the "islands," you may decide to cross the Pont de l’Archevêché just behind Notre Dame and wander into the meandering alleyways of the Latin Quarter—so named because the area’s official language until 1793 was Latin. Here, in the 12th century, the first University of Paris was founded, followed by the Sorbonne in 1253. The strong university tradition of the neighborhood has withstood centuries, although today the Latin Quarter is best known for its maze of tightly-packed bars and crowded restaurants promising cheap, tasty Greek food. Cheese-lovers might enjoy a fun fondue in one of the kitschy, chalet-style restaurants. Further away from the mayhem on rue Frédéric Sauton you’ll find Al Dar for dependably good Lebanese cuisine and Cheng Mai for fine Thai food. For hearty Burgundian fare in a vintage 1950s style bistro setting, reserve at the ever-popular Chez René on the Boulevard Saint-Germain.
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The Panthéon |
Delve deeper into the 5th arrondissement and ascend Mont Sainte Geneviève, on top of which sits the domed Panthéon. Built between 1758 and 1789 as a Greco-Roman church, the Panthéon was quickly transformed into a vast mausoleum in which important figures, or “Grands Hommes,” like Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, Zola, and Marie and Pierre Curie, are enshrined. Directly behind the Panthéon is the pedestrian rue Mouffetard, where during the day an old-world atmosphere reigns among the appetizing food shops and picturesque outdoor market. Place de la Contrescarpe, with its engaging cafés, is the perfect starting point for a nocturnal jaunt among the street’s many intimate, inexpensive ethnic and fondue restaurants.
If you choose to explore the Right Bank after lunch today, simply retrace your steps to the front of Notre Dame, find rue d’Arcole and cross the Pont d’Arcole. Rising before you will be the Hôtel de Ville, or City Hall of Paris, with a graceful, Renaissance-influenced beauty that belies the gruesome history of public executions on the hall’s sprawling square. Here you can also view excellent and free art exhibitions. Continue on across the shopper-saturated rue de Rivoli and follow the rue du Renard. The Centre Pompidou with its huge, exposed pipes and ducts will appear on your left. If the lines are too long, simply return in the evening since the museum is open until 8:50 p.m. every day except Tuesday. In addition to the collection of artwork from 1905 to the present, the center houses a vast public library and an upscale, trendy rooftop restaurant, Georges. Simpler refreshments can be had at Café Beaubourg, the first of the Costes brothers’ fashionable restaurants, which include Café Marly, Restaurant Costes and L’Esplanade, an attractive lounge and restaurant in front of the formidable Hotel des Invalides.
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| Typical
sight: book dealer |
Smaller museums abound in the nearby Marais, a loveable neighborhood best known as a chic, artsy haven for gay Parisians and foreigners. Just turn right on rue des Francs Bourgeois after the Centre Pompidou off rue du Renard in order to reach it. The Marais is representative of the atmosphere that once typified old Paris with its fading, turn-of-the-century boulangeries and crooked, beam-exposed dwellings that date from the Dark Ages. It is also Paris’ famous and historic Jewish quarter. The Marais still preserves its rich Judaic tradition despite the infiltration of high-end boutiques and trendy bars and eateries; consequently, it’s one of the rare neighborhoods open for business on Sunday. Regardless of time of day, you’re sure to see scores of pedestrians eating falafel sandwiches from Marianne’s off the rue des Rosiers. A great option for vegetarians, the restaurant offers delicious Mediterranean food at equally alluring prices.
Also off the rue des Francs Bourgeois is the beloved Musée Picasso, located in a stone, wood and marble former private villa built in the 17th-century. Take the street east until you reach the symmetrical Place des Vosges with its lovingly manicured tilleuls, or linden trees. Dating back to the beginning of the 17th century, it’s the oldest square in Paris and home to the Musée Carnavelet and the Victor Hugo residence. In addition, tucked under the vaulted arches, L'Ambroisie is a richly decorated restaurant serving exceptional, classic French cooking. Across the square is another starry establishment, the Pavillon de la Reine, a luxury hotel that was once the Palais Royale, which, along with the rest of the Place des Vosges, was commissioned by Henri IV. If you don’t reserve at L'Ambroisie, dinner alternatives in the Marais include the Belle Epoque brasserie Bofinger for seafood specialties or Chez Janou for inexpensive Provençal fare served in a jovial, old-fashioned bistro.
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Opera
of Paris |
For a lively night on the town, head east from the Marais to the Bastille. Chez Paul, on the corner of bar-infested rue de Lappe and rue de Charonne, offers French favorites such as herring with warm potato salad, Châteaubriand with béarnaise sauce and the restaurant’s signature sautéed potatoes. This ultra-popular venue, where visitors and Parisians alike bask, lures with a timeless, upbeat atmosphere. Continue the good vibes at one of the zone’s numerous clubs, lounges and bars, such as the Sans Sanz on rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine. For drinking and dancing, walk past the striking Opéra de la Bastille towards the Seine and seek out the unassuming rue Biscornet, where l’OPA, with its attractive bi-level loft space, welcomes a diverse clientèle. Another nearby alternative, situated behind the Opéra de la Bastille, is the exotic, vermilion China Club. This cavernous restaurant also features an intimate jazz bar with a long roster of tempting cocktails. Continue partying even further east along the bohemian, off-the-beaten-path Canal Saint Martin, where Hotel du Nord packs in a hip crowd of fashionable yet funky patrons in search of a coffee, a cocktail or a full-course meal in a smart Art-Deco space.
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| La
Place des Vosges |
For a more serene soirée, head due west along the illuminated banks of the Seine to the place de l’Alma, where Chez Francis affords a breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower. After an aperitif on the terrace, walk along the elegant, haute couture Avenue Montaigne or the more residential rue Jean Goujon until you reach rue Bayard. Here you’ll find Chez Savy, a petit bistro in business since 1923. Enjoy its grand ambience and don’t pass up the outstanding cuts of flavorful Aubrac beef served with a mountain of crisp "straw potatoes." For a glamorous and romantic dinner, choose between Lasserre, with its astonishing glass ceiling and the celebrated Pierre Gagnaire, or the splendid Laurent, frequented by a high-profile clientele for its fine service, food and view of the Elysées gardens. Also in this restaurant-rich zone, the luxurious Taillevent or the more affordable Restaurant l’Angle du Faubourg are both hidden on a calm street away from the bustle of the nearby Champs Elysées. If an after-dinner drink is in order, and it should be, try the hip lounge Le Baron on the avenue Marceau. Admirable alternatives include any number of the neighborhood’s sophisticated hotel bars—namely, the hot, futuristic Bar du Plaza, the classy Bar du George V, or the plush Bar du Crillon. Other popular venues to check out are the landmark bi-level lounge and restaurant, Buddha Bar, the star-studded restaurant/nightclub Man Ray, or the recently re-established restaurant and lounge at Bound on the avenue George V, where a superb sound system and sushi bar add to the hip, breezy atmosphere of this select spot.
Continue to Day 2
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