Paso Robles Wine Country, California

East Side, West Side
All Around El Paso De Robles
by Katy Budge


Paso Robles
Paso Robles

Nestled in California's Central Coast, halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, Paso Robles used to be one of the best places no one had heard of. All that has changed in recent years, especially as local wineries continue to rack up awards and local restaurants gain accolades.

As California's third biggest wine region, and its fastest growing, the Paso Robles area boasts some 26,000 acres of wine grapes and about 170 wine labels. While reds have emerged as the flagship varietals, dozens of others thrive in the area's diverse microclimates and soils. Add to that a long growing season and the state's largest day-to-night temperature swing in the summer (typically as much as 50 degrees), and you've got a recipe for bold, terroir-driven wines.

Wine and food are age-old companions, so it's no wonder that the burgeoning wine industry has attracted its fair share of food enthusiasts, especially since the area is also home to an abundant agricultural heritage. Any given day offers at least one farmers market somewhere in San Luis Obispo County, so fine dining establishments now often list local food producers on their menus as well as local wines.

No one would argue that the area has changed over the last decade and the hustle and bustle has increased. However, though longtime locals might wistfully remember the days when the main street only had one stop sign, Paso Robles still hangs on to an inviting amount of small-town charm, with a vibrant town square, rousing community events and bucolic back roads just minutes away.

La Bellasera
La Bellasera

Perhaps the best way to explore Paso Robles and its wineries is through a version of "East side, West side, all around the town." On Day One, acquaint yourself with the downtown and some local history, on Day Two, explore big wineries and a couple attractions on the East side, and on Day Three, enjoy the countryside and some of the smaller labels on the West side. (Many wineries charge nominal tasting fees which are typically refunded upon purchase of wine.) Please be sure to taste responsibly, designate a driver, and you might even consider booking one of the local wine-touring companies such as The Wine Wrangler, Paso Robles Trolley & Tour Company, or The Grapeline Winecountry Shuttle. Maps and information of the entire wine region are available from the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, 800-549-WINE (9463), 805-239-8463, www.pasowine.com.

Lodging choices in Paso Robles include small motels and inns, and more than 30 bed-and-breakfasts ranging from one-room guest cottages to nine-room estates. The posh suites and two-bedroom winemaker's villa at the beautifully realized Italian-style Villa Toscana overlook the vineyards of Martin & Weyrich on the east side, while on the west side, the elegant new La Bellasera offers a host of amenities that can include fireplaces, wet bars, and kitchenettes. For bed and breakfast options, check out The Just Inn, at Justin Vineyards, (which also features the fare at Deborah's Room, a fine small restaurant serving lunch and dinner); Winemaker's Porch at the Frances James Vineyard, with three rooms overlooking the vineyard; Carriage Vineyards Bed and Breakfast, a contemporary house in the vineyard beside the owner's personal horse carriage collection; and Hollyhock Farms, lodgings set amidst a 30-acre organic farm in nearby Templeton.

If you wish to stay in the heart of town, the historic Paso Robles Inn is conveniently located right off the square and within walking distance of many fine restaurants. The deck of the upstairs bar offers views of the park, and is especially lively most weekends. Some rooms have mineral water spas, too. Another upscale option is the intimate Hotel Cheval on Pine Street just off the square and featuring the popular Pony Club Bar. Additional information is also available at the Paso Robles Chamber of Commerce, located just off the town square on Park Street, 805-238-0506, www.pasorobleschamber.com; or from the Downtown Paso Robles Main Street Association, at 835 12th Street D, 805-238-4103, 805-238-4029, www.pasoroblesdowntown.org.

For additional information including locations and phone numbers of Paso Robles Wine Country vineyards, wineries and tasting rooms, check out the Wineries Section.

DAY 1

To help you get your bearings and settle into your 72-hour escape, we suggest you spend your first day exploring downtown Paso Robles—which was originally named El Paso de Robles (The Pass of the Oaks) for its native oak trees, but now usually just called Paso by locals—and learning about the region's history.

Plenty of old-fashioned breakfast spots are ready to fuel you up for the day, such as Vic's Café and the Cowgirl Café, or try Wilson's Restaurant, on the north end of town, open since 1948 and largely unchanged with its orange and brown Naugahyde booths. (The bowling alley across the street, Paso Bowl offers good old-fashioned entertainment.)

Walk off your country breakfast around the town square. The city park is as old-fashioned as a community park can be, often filled with the laughter of children in the playground area. The Carnegie Library building that was home to the city's historical society is still closed due to damage from the 6.3 earthquake that rattled Paso in December 2003, but the town as a whole is recovering nicely.

Rios Caledonia Adobe
Rios Caledonia Adobe

When you feel ready for a drive, enduring evidence of the area's early history awaits you just seven miles up the road in the small, quiet town of San Miguel. The Rios Caledonia Adobe offers a glimpse into early California lifestyles and rancho living, and includes a gift shop selling antiques and books benefiting the adobe. Because of its location off the beaten path, the nearby Mission San Miguel Arcángel, one of California's iconic Spanish missions, escaped much of the looting and well-meaning restoration efforts that befell other missions, but it suffered significant damage in the 2003 quake, so visitors can only admire the historic structure's exterior.

If you aren't lucky enough to find freshly grilled tacos on the street corner in San Miguel, head back to Paso, where you'll find a smorgasbord of ethnic dining choices either on or just off the town square. There's fine Thai food at Basil Thai Restaurant, French inspired fare at Petit Marcel (the lunchtime version of Bistro Laurent, a great choice for dinner), a wee bit of Celtic cuisine at The Crooked Kilt, and a few spots for Mexican food as well.

Mission San Miguel Arcangel
Mission San Miguel Arcángel

If you're still up for a bit of history, spend some time at The Pioneer Museum, which dedicates itself to "preserving today for tomorrow" and celebrates the region's history and founding families with both indoor and outdoor displays. This down-home, indoor-outdoor institution, which offers free admission, has something for everyone, ranging from a 45-million-year-old oyster fossil to more than a thousand examples of barbed wire to antique cars and farm equipment. The museum is open Thursdays through Sundays from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., and run entirely by volunteers, many of whom are from generations-old area families. (Another museum option is the Paso Robles' Children's Museum on 13th Street.)

You used to have to travel outside the city limits to partake of some of Paso's wonderful wines, but recently, several labels have joined Vinoteca Wine Bar and the Wine Attic as tasting options in the downtown area. Some of the standouts include Edward Sellers and Anglim Winery, both specializing in Rhone varietals, as well as Ortman Family Vineyards, Pianetta, and Silverstone.

For dinner, try the acclaimed Artisan, the vibrant Villa Creek, or the popular Paso Robles Inn—all top notch downtown restaurants striving to use local and/or sustainably grown products as much as possible.

Continue to Day 2

 
MORE PASO ROBLES WINE COUNTRY INFORMATION


* Mission and Adobe images by Eugene Zelenko. View of Paso Robles by Sam Houston.

P021406
(Updated: 10/08/08 SG)


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