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Paso Robles, California 72-Hour Vacation

East Side, West Side
All Around El Paso De Robles
by Katy Budge


A view of Paso Robles
Paso Robles

Nestled in California's Central Coast, halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, Paso Robles used to be one of the best places no one had heard of. Well, the secret's out, especially in terms of food and wine.

As California's third biggest wine region behind Napa and Sonoma, the Paso Robles area boasts some 26,000 acres of wine grapes and about 180 wine labels, and it seems new ones are popping up every day. While reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel emerged early on as the flagship varietals, dozens of others thrive in the area's diverse microclimates and soils. Rhône varietals have proven very successful, and there's good early buzz about Tempranillo as well. Most Paso wines are bold and terroir driven, thanks mainly to the region's long, temperate growing season and the state's largest day-to-night temperature swing in the summer, typically going from about 100 degrees Fahrenheit at midday to 50 or 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the evenings.

The wine industry has certainly spurred the growth of good restaurants, but the area also offers chefs and foodies an abundant agricultural heritage. Any given day offers at least one farmers market somewhere in San Luis Obispo County, and many chefs have established one-to-one relationships with their growers. As a result, many fine dining establishments often list local food producers on their menus as well as local wines.

One of those producers might just be Happy Acres Goat Farm in Templeton, where you can call and arrange for a tour of this family-owned and -operated farm so you can taste fresh goat cheese and see how it's made. Indeed, though recent years have brought more hustle and bustle, Paso still hangs on to an inviting amount of small-town rural charm, with a vibrant town square, ongoing community events and bucolic back roads just minutes away.

Perhaps the best way to explore Paso Robles and its wineries is through a version of "East side, West side, all around the town." (“East side” and “West side” are terms locals use to delineate which side of Highway 101 you're on.) On Day One, acquaint yourself with the downtown and some local history, on Day Two, hit the links or explore bigger wineries on the East side, and on Day Three, enjoy the countryside and some of the smaller labels on the West side.

The elegant La Bellasera hotel offers a host of amenities that can include fireplaces, wet bars, and kitchenettes
La Bellasera

Many wineries charge nominal tasting fees which are typically refunded upon purchase of wine. Some tasting rooms are also starting to provide light lunches and picnic supplies, but be sure to take along some snacks and water, especially when you visit the West side. Please taste responsibly, designate a driver, and you might even consider booking one of the local wine-touring companies such as The Wine Wrangler (which also offers wine tasting at its headquarters at the Amtrak station) or The Grapeline Winecountry Shuttle. Maps and information of the entire wine region are available from the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, 800-549-WINE (9463), 805-239-8463, www.pasowine.com.

Lodging choices in Paso Robles include small motels and inns, and more than 30 bed-and-breakfasts ranging from one-room guest cottages to nine-room estates. If you wish to stay in the heart of town, the historic Paso Robles Inn is conveniently located right off the square and within walking distance of many fine restaurants. The deck of the upstairs bar offers views of the park, and is especially lively most weekends. Some rooms have mineral water spas, too. Another upscale option is the intimate Hotel Cheval on Pine Street just off the square and featuring the popular Pony Club Bar.

Just outside of town on the west side (and just across the highway from Firestone Walker Brewing), the elegant La Bellasera offers a host of amenities that can include fireplaces, wet bars, and kitchenettes. For bed and breakfast options, check out The Just Inn, at Justin Vineyards, (which also features the fare at Deborah's Room, a fine small restaurant serving lunch and dinner); Winemaker's Porch at the Frances James Vineyard, with three rooms overlooking the vineyard; Carriage Vineyards Bed and Breakfast, a contemporary house in the vineyard beside the owner's personal horse carriage collection; and Hollyhock Farms, lodgings set amidst a 30-acre organic farm in nearby Templeton.

For additional information including locations and phone numbers of Paso Robles Wine Country vineyards, wineries and tasting rooms, check out the Wineries Section.
Wine barrels in Paso Robles, California

DAY 1

To help you get your bearings and settle into your 72-hour escape, we suggest you spend your first day exploring downtown Paso Robles and soaking up a bit of local history.

Rios Caledonia Adobe
Rios Caledonia Adobe

Originally named El Paso de Robles (The Pass of the Oaks) for its majestic native oak trees, the city is now usually just called Paso by locals. Though the wine industry has brought an urban element to the area, at the heart of downtown is a city park that's as Main Street as you can get. Depending on the calendar, this square hosts farmers markets, an olive festival, Friday night concerts in the summer, and one of the largest outdoor wine events in the state—the Paso Robles Wine Festival in May. There's also a vintage Carnegie Library building in the park that's once again home to the city's historical society (open daily except Wednesday from 10 a.m.-4 p.m.) after being closed due to damage from the 6.3 earthquake that rattled Paso in December 2003.

Breakfast spots in Paso run the gamut from the energetic Amsterdam Coffeehouse (with wi-fi), to freshly made pastries and French-inspired fare at Panolivo, to old-fashioned, stick-to-your-ribs spots such as Vic's Café. If you're up for a short drive after breakfast, enduring evidence of the area's early history awaits you just seven miles up the road in the small, quiet town of San Miguel.

The Rios Caledonia Adobe and gift shop offers a glimpse into early California lifestyles and rancho living, but the real history rock star here is Mission San Miguel Arcángel, the sixteenth of California's iconic 21 Spanish missions. Because of its location off the beaten path, the Mission escaped much of the looting and the well-intentioned restoration efforts that befell other missions. For example, the interior of the church has never been repainted, so what you see is what parishioners have viewed for over 200 years. Though the entire Mission complex suffered significant damage in the 2003 quake, dedicated community members triumphantly reopened the museum and gift shop at 11:15:56 a.m. on December 22, 2006—three years to the second from the date of the earthquake—and the surrounding buildings were all reopened by the fall of 2009.

If you're up for some bites of authentic Mexican food, check to see if the grill's fired up at the corner market a few blocks up from the mission and enjoy some tacos served on fresh tortillas with homemade salsa. Otherwise, head back to Paso, perhaps starting your wine tasting adventure at San Marcos Creek Vineyards just outside of San Miguel. For one more page of history, check out The Pioneer Museum in Paso, open Thursdays through Sundays from 1 p.m.-4 p.m. This down-home spot has something for everyone, ranging from a 45-million-year-old oyster fossil, to more than 1000 examples of barbed wire, to antique cars and farm equipment.

Mission San Miguel Arcangel
Mission San Miguel Arcángel

For a bit of lunch before wine tasting, you'll find a smorgasbord of ethnic dining choices either on or just off the town square. There's fine Thai food at Basil Thai Restaurant, French-inspired fare at Le Petit Marcel (the lunchtime version of Bistro Laurent, a great choice for dinner), or a wee bit of Celtic cuisine at The Kilt.

You used to have to travel outside the city limits to partake of Paso's wonderful wines, but now almost a dozen labels have joined Vinoteca Wine Bar and the recently opened Meritage Wine Tasting Lounge as wine tasting options in the downtown area. Some of the standouts include Edward Sellers and Anglim Winery, both specializing in Rhône varietals, as well as Ortman Family Vineyards, Pianetta, and D'Anbino Vineyards and Cellars. The owners of the latter are professional musicians, so you might find toe-tappin' live music happening on weekend evenings.

For dinner, try the acclaimed Artisan, the vibrant Villa Creek, or the al fresco ambience at Thomas Hill Organics—all top notch downtown restaurants striving to use local and/or sustainably grown products as much as possible.

Continue to Day 2

 
MORE PASO ROBLES WINE COUNTRY INFORMATION

Wine barrels in Paso Robles, California


* Mission and Adobe images by Eugene Zelenko. View of Paso Robles by Sam Houston.

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(Updated: 12/22/10 CT)

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