Paso Robles Wine Country, California

Opolo Vineyards in Paso Robles

One of the lesser-known grape-growing and winemaking regions in California, Paso Robles teeters on the verge of becoming the next "in" place for those who love to follow the grape. The city that gives the region its name sits midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, boasting an old-fashioned town square ringed by some of the area's best restaurants. A short drive away from Paso, as the locals call it, bucolic back roads lead east and west to wineries ranging from boutique artisan operations to grand and sumptuous vineyards.

This is, indeed, California’s fastest-growing wine region. It encompasses more than 26,000 vineyard acres and over 100 wineries. With a greater day-to-night temperature swing than any other appellation in California, it presents an optimal climate and geography for producing more than 40 wine varieties, ranging from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; to Syrah, Viognier and Roussanne; to Zinfandel, the area’s heritage varietal. In our visits, we have tasted some especially noteworthy reds, including Zinfandels, Rhône-style varietals and great Cabs and Petite Sirahs.

Paso Robles clearly is in transition. It's still a little bit of a hick town, with a strong farming community that features lots of horses and cows along with the vines. Many local restaurateurs and chefs are creating notable menus from local ingredients worthy of pairing with the region's wines. And there are a dozen restaurants to choose from—some of them very, very fine.

Grapeline shuttles

During your three-day getaway, you’ll actually visit two distinct winemaking sub-regions within Paso, which together offer you the opportunity to visit more than 80 tasting rooms (some open only by special appointment). For the sake of sanity and sobriety, we suggest you plan to visit half a dozen each day, tasting at perhaps three or four. Be sure to have a designated driver, or sign on with one of the local wine-touring companies such as The Wine Wrangler, Paso Robles Trolley & Tour Company or The Grapeline Winecountry Shuttle.

Lodging choices in Paso Robles include small motels and inns, and more than 30 bed-and-breakfasts ranging from one-room guest cottages to nine-room estates. The posh suites and two-bedroom winemaker's villa at the beautifully realized Italian-style Villa Toscana overlook the vineyards of Martin & Weyrich on the east side. On the west side, Santa Fe-style lodgings and a teepee make up Wild Coyote Winery Bed and Breakfast; while The Just Inn, at Justin Vineyards, offers more traditional style accommodations in addition to Deborah's Room, a fine small restaurant serving lunch and dinner. Other unique choices include Winemaker's Porch at the Frances James Vineyard, with three rooms overlooking the vineyard; Carriage Vineyards Bed and Breakfast, a contemporary house in the vineyard beside the owner's personal horse carriage collection; and Hollyhock Farms, lodgings set amidst a 30-acre organic farm in nearby Templeton. At Inn Paradiso, chef Rochelle Haringer has four lovely suites in a rustic setting, and wine country cuisine dinners arranged in advance.

If you wish to stay in the heart of town, the historic Paso Robles Inn is conveniently located right off the square and within walking distance of many fine restaurants. The deck of the upstairs bar offers views of the park, and is especially lively most weekends. Some rooms have mineral water spas, too. If you plan your visit during one of the area’s many festive wine celebration weekends and find that there's no room at the inn, the recently restored Carlton Hotel, ten miles south in Atascadero, is another upscale option.

Wherever you choose to stay, begin your visit by picking up maps to the area’s wineries and attractions at the Paso Robles Visitors & Conference Bureau. You can also purchase the $10 SLO Passport here, or from www.slopassport.com, which offers discounts at restaurants and other area establishments. For winery information, go to www.pasowine.com or call 800-549-WINE (9463).

For additional information including locations and phone numbers of Paso Robles Wine Country vineyards, wineries and tasting rooms, check out the Wineries Section.

DAY 1

To help you get your bearings and settle into your 72-hour escape, we suggest you spend your first day exploring downtown Paso Robles—which was originally named El Paso de Robles (The Pass of the Oaks) for its native oak trees—and learning about the region’s history.

Plenty of old-fashioned breakfast spots are ready to fuel you up for the day. Local farmers gather, especially on Tuesdays, at Vic's Café. There's also Joe's Place and the Cowgirl Café. If the lines are long at Vic's or Joe's, try Wilson's Restaurant, open since 1948 and largely unchanged with its orange and brown Naugahyde booths. (The bowling alley across the street, Wilson Lanes, created by the same family, offers good old-fashioned entertainment.)

Walk off your country breakfast around the town square. The city park is as old-fashioned as a community park can be, often filled with the laughter of children in the playground area.

The town is still recovering from the earthquake that rattled it in December 2003. After the 6.3 temblor, a hot spring bubbled up in the center of town and one building collapsed. But trendy shops are still popping up here and there, and antique stores flourish as well.

Altar detail, San Miguel Arcángel Mission

When you feel ready for a drive, enduring evidence of the area’s early history awaits you just seven miles up the road. In the somewhat desolate town of San Miguel, the Rios Caledonia Adobe offers a glimpse into early California lifestyles and rancho living. It also includes a gift shop, which sells antiques and books benefiting the adobe. Unfortunately, nearby Mission San Miguel Arcángel, one of California’s historic Spanish missions, has been closed since the 2003 quake, so visitors can only admire the historic structure’s exterior.

Back in Paso, take a lunch break a few blocks from the heart of town at Kelly's, a good stop for salads and sandwiches set in a charming California Craftsman cottage with an patio. We also heartily recommend the fine Thai food at Basil Thai Restaurant, across from the park.

If you want prime yourself for your wine tour, sample selections at Vinoteca Wine Bar right in town. But remember: You will have plenty of chances to sip during the next two days. Wednesdays are local winemaker nights at this tasting venue, with vintners often on hand for tastings.

We suggest you spend at least part of your afternoon at The Pioneer Museum, which dedicates itself to “preserving today for tomorrow” and celebrates the region's history and founding families with both indoor and outdoor displays. This down-home, indoor-outdoor institution, which offers free admission, has something for everyone, ranging from a 45-million-year-old oyster fossil to more than a thousand examples of barbed wire to antique cars and farm equipment. Other exhibits include an 1893 sporting goods store; a taxidermy shop complete with gun racks and a stuffed eagle clutching a rabbit in its talons; a room filled with vintage typewriters and other office equipment; crop and dairy displays; a hospital room; dioramas of a cattle drive and cowboys; and even the reconstructed bedroom of famed concert violinist Ignace Jan Pederewski, who lived in Paso Robles and was the first person to plant Zinfandel grapes in the region. There's also a charming one-room schoolhouse, circa 1886. The museum is open Thursdays through Sundays from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., and run entirely by volunteers, many of whom are from generations-old area families.

Balloon over wine country

If you’re into aviation or military history, we also recommend a visit to the Estrella Warbird Museum, located at the Paso Robles Airport. The airport is also the take-off spot for hot-air balloon rides with Let's Go Ballooning.

A visit to the airport also gives you the chance to dine at a delightful restaurant, Matthew's at the Airport. This is not your run-of-the-mill airport coffee shop. Affable chef Matthew Riley, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, turns out some of the region's best cuisine. He cures smoked salmon over Pinot Noir vines, marinates meats in the lees (grape pulp) gathered from local winemakers, and grills scallops over grape vines. And you can watch the planes land and take-off while you dine. Continue to Day 2