The New Prague
Awaiting Your Discovery

If you were a Jeopardy contestant and had to guess where to find one of Frank Gehry's most dynamic buildings, where Absinthe is legal, where Cubist architecture sits next to Gothic structures and where you can get a pretty good meal these days, what would your answer be? You have 30 seconds....

Prague is correct!

Far from the crumbling ruins left by years of communist neglect (as described by Czech author Milan Kundera in The Unbearable Lightness of Being), the Czech capital's restored glory includes a hodgepodge of historical architectural styles as well as Frank Gehry's evocative "Fred and Ginger" building. The leafy Mala Strana neighborhood is a movie-lover's magnet—setting the scenes for many films, including the epic Amadeus. Soaring high above the trendy Zizkov neighborhood, the space-age Zizkov Television Tower has some unique appendages—sculptures of crawling babies created by Czech artist David Cerny. Peruse Parizska Street and you may leave with a much lighter wallet (or well-used plastic) after some haute-couture shopping.

The medieval cobbled streets of Prague's Old Town form an enticing maze: One street leads you to the iconic statue-laden Charles Bridge, while another meanders towards the courtyards of Prague Castle. Search for the Golden Lane and you'll discover Franz Kafka's humble abode. Next, be sure to stop by a 500-year-old brewery for a sip of what the Czechs refer to as "our liquid bread." Wander towards the heart of the city and you'll find Wenceslas Square brimming with bustling tourists—a dramatic contrast to the million Czechs that gathered here in 1989 to protest the communist regime during the Velvet Revolution. At the end of the day, enjoy the sunset shadowing Prague's famed 100 spires and then watch as the city lights illuminate the evening skyline.

Mandarin Oriental Prague

Amid all these sights, you'll find a booming restaurant industry that is as gourmet as it is worldly. Add to this the burgeoning Czech economy, and it's understandable that "Praguers" have a lot to smile about. If you haven't yet forgotten images of Eastern Europe as full of breadlines and austerity, then Prague's chic cosmopolitan ambience and energetic pace will clearly demonstrate that it's the new heart of the European Union. So go on, explore and if you get lost don't worry—there's no better place to find yourself than in Prague.

Prague isn't as inexpensive as it used to be, but there are still great accommodation options. Boutique properties include Hotel Elite with its 14th century ceiling murals and The Golden Wheel, a modest-sized gem at the foot of Prague Castle. At Hotel Aria, you'll find whimsy in rooms dedicated to famous musicians. For more affordable hotels, try the cozy Prague Hotel Chodská in the Vinohrady neighborhood near Zizkov Tower or Residence Retezova, apartment-styled suites in a centuries-old building in the Old Town. For all-out luxury, the Four Seasons Hotel Prague and the Mandarin Oriental Prague enjoy fabulous views.

DAY 1

Get lost. No, really. Losing one's way in the network of narrow, winding streets of Old Town (Stare Mesto) should be your first order of business. So put the map away and wander: You'll stumble upon hidden shops, pubs, cafes, passageways and squares. It isn't about going from one specific landmark or museum to another—the city itself is the attraction.

Eventually, one of the cobbled lanes will spill out onto Old Town Square. Spend a few minutes lounging by the large statue of Jan Hus. This 15th-century religious reformer got on the pope's bad side 100 years before Luther did and effectively primed the way for the coming Reformation—but not before he was burned at the stake in 1415. On one side of the square you'll see the Tyn Church, with its spiky gothic spires; on the other side is Old Town Hall. For a great view (and an even better photo-op) go up to the lookout point—this will also help you understand the layout of the city.

Astronomical Clock

Outside the entrance to Old Town Hall, the Astronomical Clock has been keeping time and entertaining the masses since 1410. Its on-the-hour show, which features bell-ringing skeletons and the twelve apostles, might appear a bit dated by today's standards, but it's worth waiting around for a look. Around the corner from the clock, the 27 white Xs painted onto the square mark the spot where 24 noble Protestant leaders and three commoners were executed on June 21, 1621, after the Battle of White Mountain, which allowed Catholic Austria to rule the Czech lands from Vienna until 1919.

Later, make your way into the streets behind the Tyn church. There, on Mala Stupartska Street, inside the Church of Saint James (don't forget to admire its ornate façade) is a sight worth stopping in for: a 600-year-old hand. Hanging above the door (and just slightly to the left if your back is to the altar), a dried-up limb hangs from a chain. It's probably no coincidence that the hand belonged to a thief, and most of the church's worshippers were members of the butcher's guild.

Next, stroll back to Old Town Square, make a right at the Jan Hus statue and go down Parizska Street, where you can peruse and purchase amid the shopping elite. Walk over to Listopadu Street and you'll discover the neo-Renaissance Museum of Decorative Arts, home to glassworks, clothing, graphic arts and the Karlstejn Treasure—a trove of 14th century silver found hidden in the walls of Karlstejn Castle.

Adjacent to the museum is Josefov, Prague's Jewish quarter, which consists mostly of fin-de-siècle apartment buildings and trendy cocktail bars. The city virtually razed the ghetto at the turn of the 20th century, in the process saving only a few landmarks of Jewish heritage. One of the most memorable is the Old Jewish Cemetery, with its nearly 12,000 graves crammed into the tiny, tree-shaded space. Also, stop in at the Old-New Synagogue. Built around 1270, it's the oldest working synagogue in Europe.

U Fleku

Afterward, meander along the river away from the castle and you'll find yourself in New Town. A few blocks down at Jiraskuv Bridge is the Fred and Ginger building, co-designed by Frank Gehry and Croatian-born Czech architect Vlado Milunic and so-named because it looks like a couple dancing. Walk back up the river embankment, turn right on Myslikova Street, and then go left on Kremencova Street. At No. 11 where the large clock hangs above the door, U Fleku is the city's famed 500-year-old beer hall. The brew is pricier here (about 50 kc, or $2, per pint), but it's tasty stuff and the atmosphere is decidedly central European. But be warned: the only Czechs you'll find here are the staff.

For dinner try Dynamo, just down the block and around the corner at Pštrossova 220-29. This kitschy diner serves up great salads, steaks and seafood. Try to get one of the few outside tables for some street-side ambience. If sophisticated chic is what you're after, the recently renovated V Zátisí on Kremencova offers an ambience reminiscent of an elegant Atelier. Gourmands will appreciate the subtle flavors from the international menu.

Continue to Day 2